Nakazakicho is known for its narrow alleys, renovated machiya townhouses and creative neighborhood atmosphere, making it one of the most distinctive food and café scenes in Osaka. This guide covers 9 spots, from an authentic Italian restaurant run by chefs straight from Italy to a self-taught British pizza maker, as well as specialty coffee roasters, natural wine bistros, Showa-era restaurants and take-out stands that have been feeding locals for decades.
Table of Contents
Carosello
[Map] Prima Classe 1F, 3-4-13 Nakazaki, Kita Ward, Osaka. Tel: 080-4094-0568. Open: Daily 11:00–14:00; 17:00–22:30. No fixed closing day. Lunch: ¥1,000–¥2,999. Dinner: ¥2,000–¥7,999. Seating: 25. Credit Cards Accepted. Nearest Station: Nakazakicho (Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, 5 min. walk).
Every so often, two friends and I make a point of getting together for Italian food in Kansai. Michael V. is Italian American, from New York; Mark C. is Italian Canadian, from Alberta, and between the three of us, we’ve developed strong opinions about where to eat. One of our favorite spots is Casarecchio in Mukonoso, which serves some of the best Italian food I’ve had in Japan. So when Michael told me that one of Casarecchio’s chefs had opened a new restaurant in Nakazakicho in June 2025, I was genuinely excited.
We arrived on July 5, 2025 with a third friend, Richard C., our stomachs empty and ready for lunch. Walking through red door felt like taking a trip to Italy. The space had previously housed another Italian restaurant, but the new kitchen is now run by at least two Italian chefs who speak fluent Japanese with a Kansai accent. Mark also pointed out that the head chef is from Elba, the island where Napoleon Bonaparte was famously exiled.
Antipasto Misto
The lunch set at Carosello offers antipasto misto, a choice of pizza or pasta, dessert and a drink. We started off with an antipasto misto featuring mortadella, the pale pink cold cut studded with white fat and pistachio pieces that are characteristic of central Italian charcuterie. It also includes slices of prosciutto cotto, a cooked ham, a piece of herb-flecked schiacciata or focaccia cracker, a halved soft-boiled egg, and a scattering of green leaves, radicchio, julienned carrot, and orange pepper.
Ravioli
This was the dish we were most excited to try, and Mark, Michael and I all ordered it. Since the menu changes daily, the ravioli filling varies too, typically ricotta and spinach or a meat-based filling with Parmigiano, both classic Abruzzo-style combinations. “I’ve never been to an Italian restaurant in Japan that made stuffed pasta,” said Mark. “I ordered it without a second thought.” Michael was equally enthusiastic: “I went for it because stuffed pasta is such a rarity in Japan. It was fantastic, of course, a reminder of how good Italian food can be.”
Calzone Fritto
Richard ordered the calzone fritto, which contains a filling of spinach, salami, and ricotta cheese, though this can change daily. It was a much bigger dish than I expected and could easily be shared between two people. The dough has an unusually light, non-greasy texture that Japanese diners often describe as “mochi-mochi” (chewy), with a satisfying crunch from frying.
“I was there one other time and had the fried calzone, the special of the day,” said Michael. “They were generous with the filling, and the fact that it was fried was a novelty for me. Conversation with the Italian staff is always fun and lively. I enjoy the atmosphere when I’m there.”
Pizza Bianca
The pizza is baked in a wood-fired oven visible from the counter seats. We couldn’t leave the restaurant without trying it, so we ordered a pizza bianca, a style of Italian pizza made without tomato sauce and typically topped with olive oil, cheese, and ingredients such as herbs, vegetables, or cured meats. The pizza is distinctly non-Neapolitan, which aligns with the Abruzzo and Elba origins of the chefs. The crust is thin but firm, with a satisfying chew, unlike the soft, collapsing Neapolitan style.
“The pizza used Stracchino cheese and spicy soppressata salami,” said Mark. “I assure you no Italian restaurant in Japan uses this cheese. Good luck even finding it.” Stracchino is a soft, creamy fresh cheese from northern Italy, though also used in central Italian cooking.
Desserts with the lunch set vary daily but have included options such as chocolate cake with citrus sauce and gelato with berry coulis.
Exploring Nakazakicho with Video Game Legend Jeremy Blaustein
Jeremy Blaustein is the American localizer behind some of the most beloved Japanese game translations of the ’90s, including Metal Gear Solid and Silent Hill 2, who has lived in Japan for decades and runs an Osaka-based localization agency. When I met him in Nakazakichō on a spring day, he had just moved into the neighborhood after living in Himeji for many years. He was kind enough to personally introduce me to four of his favorite hangouts, a couple of which were new at the time.
Dexter Diner
[Map] Green City 101, 4-1-7 Nakazakinishi, Kita Ward, Osaka. Tel: 090-7754-0959. Open: Mon-Tue, Thu 11:00-15:00; 17:30-20:00. Closed: Wed (plus irregular days). Lunch: ¥1,000-¥1,999. Dinner: ¥1,000-¥1,999. Seating: 8. Nearest Station: Nakazakicho (Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, 4 min. walk). @dexter_diner
Jeremy takes me to meet Sohei Tokuoka, owner of Dexter Diner, who was in the middle of getting ready for the lunch rush. Tokuoka is also the second-generation proprietor of Furudokei (古時計), a long-running kissaten in Taka-cho, Hyogo. Originally trained as an Italian chef, he spent a year learning how to prepare burgers at Grateful Burger before opening Dexter Diner. His goal, he says, is to make the best burger in the world. The patty is made from 100% Kurodashо Wagyu beef, a premium Hyogo Prefecture brand. Tokuoka makes the buns with a blend of three types of flour, with the yeast reduced to bring out more of the wheat’s natural flavor, then slow-fermented at a low temperature. Dexter Diner’s coffee is sourced from Haiku Coffee Roasters, which is also covered in this article.
The Half & Half Cheeseburger at Dexter Diner
I came back on my own a few months later ordered the Half and Half Cheeseburger (¥1,500), which is topped with cheddar and mozzarella cheese. The patty is ground to an 8 mm coarse grind, the widest grind available at the butcher shop. At 8mm, the meat is chopped into noticeably larger pieces, which means the patty stays looser and more irregular, with more air pockets. The result is a coarser, chunkier bite with a more pronounced meaty texture and better juice retention. This delicious cheeseburger comes with French Fries, coleslaw, and a side of lettuce. It’s no wonder that the restaurant has become a very popular destination with foreign tourists.
Hughes Pizza
[Map] 4-1-20 Nakazakinishi, Kita Ward, Osaka. Tel: None (walk-ins only). Open: Mon, Wed-Sun 12:00-21:00. Closed: Tue. Lunch/Dinner: ¥1,000-¥1,999. Seating: 12. Credit Cards: Accepted. Nearest Station: Nakazakicho (Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, 4 min. walk). www.hughespizza.com Instagram: @hughespizza
As I write this, Hughes Pizza has opened a second location, Hughes Pizza Parkside, just across from Utsubo Park. It now has a reputation as one of the best New York-style pizza restaurants in Osaka, maybe all of Kansai. I was fortunate to visit Hughes Pizza a month after it opened, thanks to Jeremy Blaustein, who just happened to walk by as owner Alex Hughes was putting on the final touches outside before it officially opened in August of 2022. Had I written it up then, I would have gotten a real scoop. Fortunately, Osaka.com writer Julian Houseman did a wonderful job of introducing the restaurant in this article from 2023. I won’t rehash what Julian covered so well, so give it a read first and then come back here.
A Neighborhood Pizza Place
First and foremost, the thing I like most about Hughes (other than the pizza) is that it genuinely feels like a neighborhood pizza place. Do I want it to be exactly like the pizza joints I grew up with in Brooklyn? No, I do not. I like the fact that this restaurant, located in a 100 year old machiya, already feels like an integral part of the neighborhood.
I can never remember where exactly to make the turn that leads to the narrow side street where Hughes is located, but when I do find it, there’s a spring in my step as I anticipate going in and ordering a slice (or 5) with a cold craft beer. And Alex Hughes is the type of business owner who remembers his regular customers, even if you only visit a couple of times. Some of the trendier spots in Nakazakicho can be a little intimidating for the first-time visitor, but definitely not this place.
Nakazakicho-Style New York Pizza
One of the questions people always ask me about Hughes Pizza is, “Does it compare to New York pizza?” The short answer is: yes, in my opinion Hughes would be a top-tier pizza restaurant in New York City. But do you really want to come all the way to Osaka to eat pizza that tastes the same as back home? The long answer is a bit more nuanced. When I tried a slice for the first time I thought, wow, this is fantastic, but different – and I mean that in the best possible way.
Hughes has managed to put their own spin on the classic slice and come up with their own flavors, like their popular maitake pizza. You’re not going to find that in New York, so you’ll have to come back to Osaka to try it again. That’s how it should be. Millionaire pizza bros like Dave Portnoy have tried to turn pizza into a commodity that can be rated with silly numbers like an Olympic sport. If you have to stand in line for an hour just to try a slice of pizza that has been hyped up by influencers, you are wasting your time.
Known for Collabs
Hughes is known for its collaborations with neighborhood shops and other pizza places, including one in Korea. But how many pizza shops can say they’ve collaborated with a regular customer who doesn’t even own a restaurant? After trying Jeremy’s homemade meatballs, the shop went on to do not one, but two collaborations featuring them, both of which quickly sold out. I managed to attend one, and the meatball topping was fantastic. It was the kind of event that perfectly captures the community spirit that has helped make Hughes a local institution.
Haiku Coffee
[Map] 2-4-4 Ukida, Kita Ward, Osaka. Tel: N/A. Open: Daily 12:00-17:00. No fixed closing day (check Instagram @haikucoffeeroasters). Drinks: ¥~999. Seating: 10. Credit Cards: N/A. Nearest Station: Tenjinbashisuji Rokuchome (Osaka Metro/Hankyu, 5 min. walk). Nakazakicho Station (Osaka Metro, 8 min. walk. Instagram: @haikucoffeeroasters
Jeremy and Alex Hughes both raved about Haiku Coffee, so I knew we had to stop by for a cup of hot java. The shop is owned by Japanese and American couple Kazuya Taniguchi and his wife, Kali Taniguchi. Despite the name, the café is not named after Japanese haiku poetry. Instead, it takes its name from Kali’s hometown of Haiku, a rural district in Maui, Hawaii. The shop, which opened in 2018, features decor and ambience modeled after a café that Kali’s parents ran there when she was a child. The café relocated to its current location in 2021. The new space has more natural light and a slightly larger kitchen. Kazuya Taniguchi used to work at an antique shop, and has used that experience to display art and interesting object in the cafe.
Expertly-Made Coffee
Using a beautiful copper dripper and matching pot acquired at an antique market, along with a hand-crafted stand made by Kazuya, they carefully brew each cup by hand. Before brewing, the beans are roasted on-site in small batches using an Aillio Bullet R1 V2, a specialty roasting machine that allows precise control over roast profiles and helps bring out the distinct character of each bean. The coffee selection is entirely single-origin, with a particular emphasis on African beans from countries such as Kenya and Ethiopia, alongside a balanced selection from Timor-Leste in Asia and Nicaragua and Honduras in Central America. The menu is drip only, no espresso.
Jeremy and I both have the gift of gab, but once our coffee and delicious muffins arrived, we managed to stop talking and simply enjoy our surroundings. I haven’t been to Hawaii in over 20 years, but sitting here reminded me of the one time I visited the islands with my family. I can’t tell you exactly what was in the muffin, and it may have been a special menu item, but it was made with the same care and attention as the coffee.
Parloir Nakazaki Natural Wine Stand
[Map] 1-3-6 Nakazaki, Kita Ward, Osaka. Tel: 090-8480-0136. Open: Daily 12:00-23:30. No closing day. Drinks/Food: ¥~999-¥1,999. Seating: 5. Credit Cards: N/A. Nearest Station: Nakazakicho (Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, 3 min. walk). Instagram: @parloir_nakazaki
“I remember finding this spot because they’re really into natural wine, which is a whole new world for me,” says Jeremy. “Natural wine is made with carefully selected grapes and has a kind of craft beer or small batch feel to it. This place has a huge wine room in the back, where you can go in and choose from their best bottles, all kept chilled. They also make really great canelés, which have become a popular little pastry here in Japan.”
The name Parloir comes from the French word for parlor, derived from the verb parler, meaning to speak. It is also a sister venue to Parlor Yodoyabashi and Spectacle Kitahama. The owner trained in France at a three-Michelin Guide-star restaurant, where making canelés was part of the daily routine. The canelé recipe used at Parloir is the same one from that training and is made without additives or preservatives, then baked fresh every day. The natural wine specialty shop in the back is called Vintique, and the owner kindly gave us a tour of the premises.
Queen
[Map] Settsu Building 1F, 3-1-1 Nakazaki, Kita Ward, Osaka. Tel: 06-6373-3409. Open: Mon-Sat 8:00-16:00. Closed: Sun & public holidays. Breakfast/Lunch: ¥~999. Seating: 12. Credit Cards Not Accepted. Nearest Station: Nakazakicho (Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, 1 min. walk). https://www.facebook.com/chakky.queen
Queen opened in 1965, making it one of the longest-running restaurant in the immediate Nakazakicho area. The current owner, Chiaki, who previously worked in the apparel industry, took over the restaurant from her mother to preserve the comforting taste of home-style cooking. Celebrity visitors, including members of Kanjani, actor Osamu Mukai, and Hitoshi Matsumoto of Downtown, have left signed memorabilia displayed on the walls I’ve walked by this restaurant dozens of times over the years, so I was excited to finally go inside.
Hamburg Steak on Hayashi Omurice
I came here to try their signature dish, hamburg steak on hayashi omurice, which regularly ranks among the top omurice spots in Osaka on Tabelog, even reaching No. 2. (They are the champions, my friend). The base is a simple ketchup rice with shimeji mushrooms, onion, and thick-cut bacon, all wrapped in a thick egg and topped with rich hayashi sauce. If they stopped there, it would already be a filling dish, but the generous portion of hamburg steak on top is the real kicker. All of this comes at the remarkably low price of ¥1,100.
Look, I get why Kichi Kichi Omurice in Kyoto went viral after appearing on Netflix. The owner is an entertaining character, and watching the egg spill open after it’s sliced is undeniably impressive. But we’re talking about a dish that costs nearly three times as much as this one, and it doesn’t even come with hamburg steak. If you can’t get a reservation come to Queen instead. They will. They will. Rock you!
Meat Shop Yamatatsu
[Map] Meat Shop Yamatatsu (ミートショップ 山辰), 3-2-8 Nakazaki, Kita Ward, Osaka. Tel: N/A. Open: Mon-Tue, Thu-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00. Closed: Wed. Takeout: ¥~999. Seating: None (takeout only). Credit Cards: N/A. Nearest Station: Nakazakicho (Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, 5 min. walk).
Meat shop Yamatatsu is a traditional butcher’s shop with a take-out fry shop specializing in minchi katsu (ground beef cutlets) and croquettes. The minchi katsu is made with trimmings and offcuts from the shop’s daily butchering. Yamatsu is known for frying everything to order rather than keeping items under a heat lamp, which is responsible for the crisp texture and piping-hot freshness.
The shop is well-known among locals for its affordable prices, but remains somewhat unknown among the many tourists visiting Nakazakicho. Since I was completely stuffed, I ordered the croquette, which was filled with fluffy mashed potato, finely chopped onion, and small pieces of seasoned meat. One reviewer on Retty stated that the croquettes rival anything at Nakamuraya, the famous takeout butcher and croquette shop in Minami-Morimachi, near the entrance of Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street.
The Gut’s Coffee
[Map] 3-2-29 Nakazaki, Kita Ward, Osaka. Tel: 06-6374-6390. Open: Daily 9:30-18:00. Irregular closing days (check Instagram). Drinks: ¥~999. Seating: 10. Credit Cards Not Accepted (PayPay accepted). Nearest Station: Nakazakicho (Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, 2 min. walk). Instagram: @thegutscoffee
The Gut’s is an interior construction and design company based inside a renovated machiya with a slightly industrial feel. The company opened a café on the first floor, operated by a single staff member. Toward the rear of the space, a former workshop has been left largely intact and furnished with three brown leather armchairs and a wooden coffee table, giving it the feel of a lived-in lounge. There’s also a low octagonal table with benches made from wooden beams. A plywood DJ booth with the words “Life is Short” stenciled across the front is used for events. The highlight is a vintage Space Invaders arcade cabinet that is fully functional. Orders and pickup are handled on the first floor, while additional seating is available on the third floor, reached by a steep staircase.
Australian-Style Coffee
The Gut’s uses beans from Single O, the well-known Sydney roaster. Since I was unfamiliar with what some call the Australian wave of specialty coffee, it took me quite some time to understand the style. In Australian specialty coffee, a clean cup generally means brewing in a way that avoids bitterness, heaviness or sediment, so the coffee tastes clear and balanced. This is typically achieved through lighter roasting, careful extraction and brewing methods that filter out excess oils and fine particles.
You can grab your coffee with a donut or one of the house muffins. I had my eye on a muffin but struggled to choose between Cookie Cream, Banana Walnut, Blueberry Cream, Green Tea Chocolate, and Chocolate Macadamia. In the end, the macadamia nuts won me over.
The Gallery Space
With coffee and muffin in hand, I climbed the stairs to the third floor, which also serves as a rental gallery space. The sparsely decorated room has a calm, meditative atmosphere not found in most coffee shops. I had the entire floor to myself and spent a peaceful time looking out the window at passersby going about their business while enjoying my coffee and muffin at my own pace.
When the staff warned me to be careful on the stairs, they were not joking. Saying they are steep is an understatement. They are practically vertical! Climbing them was not so bad, but going down was absolutely terrifying. I inched my way down with great caution, one step at a time. When I reached the second floor, I realized there was no railing and I was worried I would stumble and topple over the side onto customers ordering coffee below. It was a bit traumatic, but do not let my experience put you off. I am scared of heights and a bit claustrophobic at times.
Taiyo no To
[Map] 2-3-12 Nakazaki, Kita Ward, Osaka. Tel: 06-6374-3630. Open: Daily 9:00-22:00 (Morning 9:00-11:00; Lunch 11:00-15:00). No fixed closing day. Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner: ¥1,000-¥1,999. Seating: 35. Credit Cards Accepted. Nearest Station: Nakazakicho (Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, 2 min. walk). Website: taiyounotou.com Instagram: @cafe_taiyounotouWhen Taiyo no To opened in 2002, Nakazakicho was still known more for its quiet backstreets and old-school kissaten than for the independent cafés that would later define the area’s identity. Noriko Hirohata launched the café at just 24 after years of working multiple hospitality jobs to save enough to start her own business. Unable to secure a lease in central Osaka, she found an opportunity in Nakazakicho.
Designed like a cozy vintage home, the space is filled with antique furniture, retro lighting, and the nostalgic atmosphere of a classic Japanese kissaten. Taiyo no To, named after the tower designed by Taro Okamoto for Expo 1970, specializes in comforting, home-style meals such as daily set lunches and butter chicken curry, but it’s equally known for its old-school sweets, particularly its firm Showa-style pudding, cream sodas, and house-made scones. The entire operation is run by an all-female staff, a reflection of Hirohata’s long-standing commitment to creating a workplace built around women. Taiyo no To has since expanded to include a sister café, an annex, a patisserie, and a location in Namba City.
A Hangout for Film Buffs
Taiyo no To moved into its current home in the Pilot Building in 2004, where it shares the space with Planet Plus One, one of Osaka’s best-known arthouse mini-theaters. The pairing has made the café a natural gathering point for filmmakers, artists, and cinema-goers attending screenings. This is exactly how I discovered the café a few years after it opened. I was so impressed by the decor, food, and service that I recommended it as the monthly meeting place for staff and readers of the now-defunct Kansai Time Out magazine.
I returned to Taiyo no To for the first time in a decade at the start of the year. A friend was visiting from London who doesn’t drink coffee. After stopping at Hughes Pizza for a bite, he was in the mood for some English breakfast tea, but really wasn’t expecting to find it in Osaka. I just happened to remember that Taiyo no To has it on the menu, so we walked there and had a nice time drinking tea and coffee and eating delicious cakes.
