Who Knew? Vol. 5: From Osaka to Pakistan with Love

Inspired by a father’s memories of Pakistan, this journey through Osaka explores authentic halal Pakistani restaurants, spice markets, as well as the Osaka Masjid community affectionately known as “Little Pakistan.”

Distant memories. Faded letters. A dark green flag, white vertical bar, crescent, and star. Expat friends from long ago. Old black and white Polaroids spilled from a box. Names of river valley towns once noted on yellowing parchment, a map: Sultan Pur. Karim Bakhsh. Baral. Pandori. Ladhar. Chak Jaho. Fort Mangla. A shocking realization of lives once lived in a far off land.

The author has been in “search of Pakistan” since he was five years old.

A lifelong fascination, as well as a family connection, with Southeast Asia leads me to a few of Osaka’s hidden Pakistani gems where authentic spices and warm hospitality await. A common mantra exists among Pakistani restaurants in Osaka: “Authentic Pakistani food is the culinary bridge people cross to experience our culture.”

Join me in discovering some of my own roots in spice as we “cross that bridge” toward Osaka’s most authentic Pakistani cuisine anywhere.

Table of Contents

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Distance

 Distance. Osaka. Far from Karachi, Islamabad, Gujranwala, or Quetta. For many Pakistanis living permanently abroad, the 5,630 km or 3,498 miles from home can sometimes feel like a double edged sword. One leaves behind not only familiar faces, family, and friends, but the familiarity and assurances of one’s hometown.

Among the things most missed that stir past memories are the sounds, smells, and tastes of home.

Amongst the most things missed that stir past memories are the sounds, smells, and tastes of home.

That steamy hot cup of chai, or doodh patti, a strong, sweet, creamy black tea on a cold morning.

Wood and charcoal fired flat saj hot plates bubbling with chikar cholay, a chickpea stew.

The crackle of hot oil and fresh atta (wheat) poori, puffed up with air, as the ladle whisks them from the heat.

The knock on a wooden door. A mother’s warm smile.

The reassuring rhythm of communal prayers.

Afternoon dust settles lazily in forgotten alleyways traversing between colorful chalk and milk painted buildings.

Children in sandals and colorful Sindhi Jyuubo jumping rope on the back streets or rolling iron hoops down dusty lanes, sticks in hand.

The constant patter of foot traffic. Vendors’ carts, jeepneys, and trucks line the lanes of life there. Fathers and grandfathers making their livings in shops on those streets.

Purple mist hangs like a cape in the river valley below. Straw ticks peek through layers of sun baked, hand hewn clay bricks in the walls of the towering mosque. A crisp November breeze off the valley ridgeline signals an early winter.

Maghrib, the fourth obligatory call to prayer, flows like tendrils of juniper smoke from the loudspeakers mounted high on minarets, their steeples stark against the brilliant burnt orange backdrop of a setting sun.

 The sunset prayer set out in a song, its own tragically beautiful mantra, traversing, coursing, and fading slowly out over the land and through the hearts and minds of a people.

According to many good friends here, these are the cobweb memories that blow down the windswept back alleys of many a Pakistani expat’s mind.

Diaspora

To those expats, and other Islamic nationalities residing in Osaka, struggling to adjust and make their home here in Osaka, it may be easy to assume the sensory comforts of what was once called “home” no longer exist. A need to “go back” has one trapped. This is a common experience in what is known as the diaspora, whether it is elders longing to return or successive generations that feel caught between cultures. There is an unspoken truth that “Pakistan hamara watan hai,” and that our domicile in other places was an unfortunate consequence shaped by historical circumstances.

It is those things missed that make many expatriates dealing with a certain diaspora, or sense of displacement, yearn to come together for even a semblance of home.

The term diaspora, derived from the Greek language, refers particularly to the global dispersion of Muslims who have settled outside their countries of origin, resulting in diverse communities struggling to maintain their religious and cultural identity. Accurately defined, the term itself means “to scatter” or “dispersion.”

The experience of diaspora, therefore, whether through forced or voluntary migration, almost always invokes a feeling of being uprooted or dislocated from one’s original homeland, living afar on the fringe. For the resident population of Osaka’s Pakistani Muslims, other minority religions, and Muslims of other countries around the world, it is to a great many as though they are living on an outpost.

An Unlikely Expat in a Far Off Land

(Pc: Baral Colony Pictures (1-6) -Robin Woodhouse Collection, FBmemories)

My late father was a quiet Texan/Californian who knew all about living out on the fringe. A confidently quiet man, he rarely spoke about his past.

Until I was 10, I knew nothing of his younger years. Nor did I know much about a good friend of his from that past; a dark haired, friendly man who lingers, smiling, only on the extreme periphery of my earliest childhood memories.

This friend and my father, classmates at San Francisco State University in the early seventies, had actually met one another a decade previous on an outpost.

Fast forward. An afternoon in 1981. I am ten. My father pulls down a dusty box from a closet shelf. Black and white Polaroids, maps, and a faded dark green flag tumble onto the kitchen table. History unravels before my very eyes.

     “Remember the man with the black hair and mustache who used to bring us rice and curried stews around the holidays? Well, we were young classmates overseas.

“Our dads once worked together on a major operation called the Mangla Dam Project in the Mirpur District, Jhelum River, Azad Kashmir region of Punjab in a country called Pakistan.”

Mangla

The Mangla Dam Project was a result of the Indus Waters Treaty signed in 1960 whereupon Pakistan received the rights to develop the Jehlum, Chenob, and Indus river basins.

The Mangla Dam is a multipurpose dam situated on the Jhelum River in Mirpur District, Pakistan. The old Fort Mangla sitting at the mouth of the dam serves as its namesake. The Mangla Dam is the sixth largest dam in the world and one of the largest infrastructure developments in Pakistan

“The Mangla Dam Project” was undertaken by a consortium known at the time as the Mangla Dam Contractors, consisting of one British head engineering firm, Binnie and Partners, London, and eight American construction firms sponsored by the Guy F. Atkinson Company, South San Francisco, California.

While the London firm supervised the engineering of the dam, the consortium of American contractors would be the ones to build it.

The company then allowed a good many workers to have their families with them from the beginning of construction to the inauguration of the completed dam.

My grandfather “J. B.” was one of these.

A superintendent on the Mangla Project, he was sent to Pakistan with my grandmother Wynonah, my father Jim, and his sister, my aunt Vicki, in early 1962. In the following years it would be a massive undertaking providing irrigation and hydropower as well as forming the 100 square mile Mangla Reservoir.

Mangla means “paradise of angels.”

Baral Colony

My father laughed as he pulled a picture from the box, a young lad clad in traditional shalwar kameez tunic, a pagri turban, and Pothohari pointed shoes.

“WHO is that?” I asked.

“Me!” he replied. 

Sure enough the mischievous grin and smiling eyes of my dad in a body many years younger stood out from the black and white photo! For the very first time, I was staring in disbelief at picture proof that my father had actually been a boy once himself!

Many families united together by expat status had, he explained, lived their lives together on a compound on an outpost called the Baral Colony (Fort Mangla).

There, to quote my Aunt Vicki: “We had a regular town built by the company, complete with houses, a school, bowling alley, hospital, theater, golf and country club, two Olympic sized swimming pools, and a commissary.

“We didn’t have clothing nor shoe stores then, so we went to the local towns to buy things. It was a very different lifestyle but also very unique! It gave us opportunities that most people don’t have.”

Today my Aunt Vicki still makes the pilgrimage she used to make with my father and grandparents to Oroville, California for Baral reunions.  

A Gift of Spice

My father left Baral colony via Pakistan International Airlines sometime after 1964 to return stateside.

He would meet his Pakistani friend, whose name I cannot recall, again later at SFSU. 

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For a few years after college, before returning to Pakistan, this friend would drop in around the holidays bearing gifts, containers of crunchy samosa, homemade mixed rice called, in Dad’s accent, “bireeeyan-ni,” and a larger crock of meat “masaaaaaylla,” the a’s dragged out into a string like “salad.”

My mother, raised on British curries, would heat the dishes until the aromas in the house reached absolutely dazzling levels. These aromas drew out the imagination of this five year old boy and their tastes would permanently recalibrate my pallet, carrying me to worlds beyond my own.  

As I traveled abroad, I found that food has the power to transcend borders and backgrounds. Encounters I had with people in various parts of the world taught me early on that breaking ‘bread ‘around a table or hearth can certainly transcend borders. That something as simple as food can assume the role of Ambassador, bridging the gap between cultures.

I am happy to announce that Pakistani food culture is alive and well here in Kansai! 

Let’s go meet some really good people and try a few great dishes in a few really great places as we make our way through central Osaka and over the bridge to Chibune, Owada, and the Masjid mosque area in a part of town known affectionately as “Little Pakistan.”

WHAT IS PAKISTANI CUISINE? Pakistani cuisine is a vibrant reflection of the country’s rich cultural heritage, with aromatic spices, bold flavors, and hearty dishes that warm the heart and soul.Traditional dishes like haleem, nihari, and karahi are slow-cooked to perfection, filling the air with tantalizing aromas. At its core, Pakistani food is comfort food that brings people together, with a focus on meat-centric dishes and a generous spirit of hospitality, known as “mehmaan nawazi.” This spirit of hospitality treats guests like family, strengthening bonds and fostering community through the sharing of meals, served with love, care, and a deep appreciation for the people and culture that bring it to life.

-Worldfolio.com/Pakistani cuisine

Ali’s Kitchen: Pakistani & Arabic Cuisine (Shinsaibashi)

1 Chome-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0085.Tel: 06-4708-5745 [Map]

 “Come eat with confidence! We are the first REAL premiere Pakistani and Arabic food restaurant in Japan, serving Muslims from all over the world as well as non-Muslims, locals, and tourists.We are a comfortable destination for all! It’s home cooking at its best using 100% pure ingredients ensuring a truly authentic experience!”

Tucked away in the heart of Osaka’s “Merchant Town” is Ali’s Kitchen, a gem of a restaurant serving authentic Pakistani and Arabic cuisine. As Osaka’s first award winning Pakistani restaurant, with multiple TripAdvisor awards, and Japan’s first Pakistani recipient of the Michelin Bib Gourmand award in 2017 and 2018, Ali’s Kitchen is a must visit destination.

Owner Ali ‘Baba’ Zaidi, long-time friend, entrepreneur, and passionate cook, shares his mission: “Home-cooked food is the best food!”  “Mr. Ali” is as affable a person as you’ll ever meet. Determined to be the first to introduce Osaka to Pakistani and Arabic food, his hospitality is infectious, his dishes irresistible! Ali’s larger-than-life personality and attentive service to each customer, creates the feeling you’re dining in Mr. Ali’s own home. 

Inspired by his grandfather’s tumultuous migration to the west, having left his wealth behind in a then unpartitioned India, Ali watched his grandfather rebuild his wealth through cooking. With the words of his grandfather forever upon him, “Learn to cook and you’ll depend on no one ever,” a young eight year old Ali picked up the chore of cooking for his family and found it enjoyable. Something worthy. Finally that same worthy young man brought Pakistani and Arab cuisine to Osaka to introduce to the world.

The restaurant’s menu boasts over 600 dishes, with two standouts recommended by the man himself, the 24 spice House Specialty Biryani and Meghaz Masala, sheep’s brain curry, a rich creamy curry made with sheep’s brain slowly cooked in a stew of vegetables and spice.

Though ubiquitous to any Pakistani restaurant in the world, biryani is a taste that differs with every experienced chef. Mr. Ali takes great pride in his style of biryani, a spiced fluffy rice of cardamom, cumin, cinnamon, clove, and other undisclosed treasures possessing a total of 24 spices.

“The best biryani in Japan, certified by the President of the Japan Biryani Association. Our biryani is a spicy rice dish that is slowly cooked with 24 different spices and basmati rice, not just fried rice like some other places. Once you try it, you will be hooked. Many food lovers come specifically to enjoy just our biryani. You will not find this flavor anywhere else. Beef JPY 1,800, mutton JPY 1,800, shrimp JPY 1,800, vegetable JPY 1,500.”

(Ali of Ali’s Kitchen as quoted in tabelog.com)

If it is a hot, rich and bubbling curry you are after, why not give Meghaz Masala (or sheep brains) a try? After dry-frying in a blend of spices and oil, the brains are slowly simmered in a rich, thick curry with spices and stir-fried with onions, tomatoes, and herbs, resulting in a soft, creamy texture and rich, savory flavor. The attention to detail makes this one of Ali’s best selling dishes! In Ali’s own words:


Our Meghaz Masala is a curry made with sheep’s brain, our most popular (curry) dish! While the cooking method can be a bit tricky, this ingredient is often overlooked. Yet it is creamy and has a taste similar to cod roe or silken tofu, making it a favorite amongst our regulars.”
-Ali of Ali’s Kitchen -quote via Tabelog
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With a vibrant atmosphere and attentive service, Ali’s Kitchen feels like dining in Ali’s own home. The restaurant’s success has led to the opening of a new location next door, offering 100% halal Kobe beef, Korma Biryani, and Kebab, among other specialties.

Ali’s Kitchen is a true gem, and its popularity stems from Mr. Ali’s continued commitment to serving authentic, delicious Pakistani cuisine. “Pakistani food is the bridge people cross to access our culture… Creating safe, convenient spaces for people to dine and enjoy 100% halal food. “

Put Ali’s Kitchen on your must-visit list for an unforgettable dining experience!

A little known secret affectionately known as little Pakistan”

Chibune Station, Owada Area, Nishiyodogawa-ku

Access: For any of the shops this article covers within the Owada Masjid mosque area, you can reach them without transfers. Get off at Chibune Station from Hanshin Main Line Umeda Station and walk five minutes, or take the Osaka Municipal Bus from Osaka Station Bus Stop to Owada 4 chome Bus Stop right in front of the Osaka Masjid and Osaka Halal Restaurant. There is also coin parking nearby.

In west Osaka, near the mouth of the Yodogawa River, across the Chibune Bridge to the manmade island of Owada, a quiet community thrives.

The Osaka Masjid (mosque) and neighboring Pakistani restaurants and shops have become a cultural heartbeat, a sanctuary of identity, faith, memory, a solid pillar as central to their community as any other corner of the world. This vibrant community, centered around the Osaka Masjid, is more than just a mosque and restaurants – it’s a hub of cultural identity for the Pakistani diaspora and a welcoming space for Muslims of all nationalities.

For Pakistanis abroad, they offer solace and familiarity. For other Islamic faith based nationalities, they offer fellowship, interconnection, and unity. For locals and tourists, they provide a unique doorway to a world rich with hospitality, flavors, traditions, and stories.

Day Tripping in Little Pakistan

My friend, a fellow spice enthusiast, and I had been eager to explore this Pakistani enclave in western Osaka for some time. 

Affectionately known by some as “Little Pakistan” and by others “Nishiyodostan,” my friend had been here briefly once before. At my request he readily agreed to a mission of “shopping for spice.” He warned me however, “Pick a day. Let’s go, but we had better leave early. There are three separate train routes to the area, and each one will get you lost.”

We set out on a Friday morning last spring. True to his word, after a series of missed train stops and lengthy switchbacks-and a few bouts of bickering over the routes we COULD HAVE taken, we finally arrived at Chibune Station!

As we stepped out of the station, we found ourselves in a quiet neighborhood that felt miles away from central Osaka. 

We homed our devices on to the Osaka Masjid mosque and the Osaka Halal restaurant, our main destination landmarks for the day.

The route took us across the river via the Chibune Bridge and into a residential area where we discovered a series of narrow streets lined with homes and small businesses, with a few Pakistani storefronts gradually appearing.

A bustling spice shop loomed up with a line out the door. Berobed patrons stood by conversing and slowly entering the crowded shop 

This would be our very first stop of the morning, and oh what a morning it would be.

Osaka Halal Dry Spice Market Sitara

1F, 4-13-6 Owada, Nishiyodogawa-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 555-0032. [Map]

“CHIBUNE Station: UMEDA Hanshin Line (6 min walk) DEKIJIMA Station-NAMBA Hanshin Line (12 min walk) MITEJIMA Station-JR TOZAI Line (15 min walk). We are easy to reach from any line! Please come see us!”

Step into Sitara, a sprawling spice market, and one is immediately enveloped in a kaleidoscope of colors. Bright reds, dark reds, vermilion, deep oranges, intense yellows, golds, purples, and then earth colors.

PC: Tabelog.com: Osaka Halal Market Sitara storefront

Ground spices of every kind and size are haphazardly thrown -one atop the other- upon shelves, buckets, and pallets. The air is rife with spice! My friend and I exchange glances. We have surely died and gone to heaven!

Burlap and huge hemp bags of herbs, spices, and teas are stacked everywhere, forming narrow footpaths between wooden shelves and pallets groaning under the weight of dry goods. The owner, a charismatic maestro, orchestrates the chaos with flair, flashing smiles, patting backs, and rattling off prices with the enthusiasm of an auctioneer.

While my partner in crime moves off to find the tea and biscuits aisle, I’m drawn to the rainbow of spices before me. The owner senses my excitement. As I examine a small bag of turmeric, he appears at my elbow with two more bags in different shades of yellow-gold. His piercing eyes and engaging smile convince me I need all three. “One cannot have enough turmeric,” he says with a chuckle.

He continues to add to my pile, tossing in mini pouches of galangal, coriander powder, and mustard seeds, yelling “Gifts!” and “No spice, no life!” above the din. I lose track of the math, caught up in the excitement. My friend returns, laughing that I’m like a patron at a traditional wanko soba shop, “You’ve got to flat refuse to stop the barrage!”

Hands held high, we finally surrendered. The owner smiles, bows, and points us to the register. After some good natured haggling, we reached an agreement. Our purchases are tossed into a black plastic bag, accompanied by a small bag of candy-coated fennel – a sweet gesture I suppose to sweeten the deal. 

Outside, my friend quips about the small premium he has just paid for his black tea and lemon biscuits! I left with a heavy pack and a lighter wallet, my estimated 2500 more like 4500 yen, but for the experience, whose counting? The owner’s charm won me over! We depart with smiles, our senses buzzing, already planning our next visit to this vibrant spice market. 

Osaka Masjid Halal Food & Spice Shop

12-16-4 Owada, Nishiyodogawa-ku, Osaka 555-0032. [Map]

“Osaka Masjid – More than a Place of Worship! Your spiritual home in the city – welcoming all to worship, learn, and belong. A place where faith, knowledge, and unity flourish together. ”

“Masjid” is an Arabic word meaning “a place of prostration,” and it refers to a mosque. Osaka Masjid, located in the Nishiyodogawa area of Owada, is the second of three mosques in Osaka. The first and slightly smaller mosque is located in Ibaraki and is named after that city. The third mosque, Masjid Istiqlal, is larger and more centrally located. It opened in Osaka’s Nishinari Ward in March 2022.

As you wander through the narrow streets of Owada in the Nishiyodogawa area, you’ll stumble upon the Osaka Masjid mosque, its unassuming yet majestic presence commanding the corner intersection of two avenues. The mosque’s cool mint green exterior, gold trim, and minarets painted on its third floor exude a sense of serene elegance.

Holy sites, particularly mosques, have always held my attention. These places of prayer and introspection command reverence, regardless of one’s own background or faith.  On this beautiful Friday morning, many people are gathered for Jumm’ah (end of week prayers), and a lively atmosphere is palpable. Congregations dressed in traditional attire are gathered near the entrance, while my companion and I stroll along the outskirts, feeling a tad out of place in our casual clothes. We receive curious glances, but smiles and nods welcome us into their midst.

I realize too late that our attire might not be suitable for the prayer floors, so we explore the Masjid Spice Shop on the first floor instead. The shop offers a variety of halal food items, spices, condiments, and necessities, including frozen halal meats at decent prices. I found two discounted bags of Kohinoor Basmati long grain rice, a steal at 800 yen. I purchased these before the aroma pulled us out of the Masjid and into the front door of Osaka Halal Restaurant.

A word on the Osaka Masjid:

The Osaka Masjid is a vibrant community hub, serving as a “home away from home” for Muslims from around the world, particularly Pakistanis. It features separate prayer areas for men and women, a madrassah for children, and hosts regular prayers, community events, and provides services like marriage certificates and burial arrangements. With its unassuming facade and welcoming atmosphere, the Osaka Masjid has become the heart of spiritual and social life in the area.

Osaka, as one of Japan’s most Muslim friendly cities, encourages people to visit, learn, and engage with the community, moving beyond stereotypes and embracing the diversity that the city has to offer. Whether you are looking to try authentic Pakistani cuisine or simply there to experience the vibrant community life, Osaka Masjid is a must visit destination that will leave you with a deeper understanding and appreciation of this welcoming Muslim community abroad.

Osaka Halal Restaurant 

1st Floor, Onji Mansion, 4-13-2 Owada, Nishiyodogawa-ku, Osaka, Osaka 555-0032 [Map]

“At Osaka Halal Restaurant, As-salamu alaykum. I am Abbasi, owner of Osaka Halal Restaurant. For Muslims in need to halal food in Japan, and Japanese people, I opened the Osaka halal restaurant in the east side of the Osaka Masjid of Owada, Nishiyodogawa-ku, Osaka City in 2013. We prepare a buffet every Friday. On special holidays, I plan my hometown dishes (from) Kashmir. Please come to eat the Pakistani dishes of Osaka Halal Restaurant if you visit Osaka. You can enjoy authentic flavors just as they are. Best Halal food from Pakistan! We sincerely look forward to your visit!”

Across from the Masjid, a short walk takes you to the entrance of Osaka Halal Restaurant, a highly-recommended spot we were eager to try. Normally, my companion explained, they offer a weekday lunch menu with options A, B, or C, but on Fridays, they have a noon buffet. We opted for the buffet, which seemed like the perfect choice. 

Be prepared to wait if you visit on a Friday, as the restaurant gets crowded after congregational prayers at 1:30 PM and 6:30 PM. Ramadan is also a busy period, but the non-buffet menu has special options during that time. 

As we waited outside with other patrons, we noticed a small line forming. When we joined the queue, we were greeted by the owner, Abbasi, who welcomed us with a warm smile and assured us a table for two.His hospitality immediately put us at ease. 

Abbasi invited us to “fit right in” and treated us to baskets of hot roti, directing us to the buffet line featuring a variety of dishes. The central table was filled with tins and crocks, each labeled with its contents: fluffy chicken biryani, steaming mutton nihari stew, bubbling dal gosht chickpea curry, stewed mutton, and salad. The biryani was a highlight, with a perfect balance of spices and hunks of chicken in every bite. The mutton nihari was also a popular choice, with many patrons lining up for a heaping spoonful. The roti and lassi we received were extremely tasty and complemented the main dishes perfectly. 

One customer on Halal Gourmet wrote the following review when Osaka Halal Restaurant opened in 2013: “As salamu alaykum! Just as the saying among South Asian cuisine enthusiasts goes, ‘You can find authentic and delicious Pakistani restaurants near mosques.’ A fully halal Pakistani restaurant has suddenly opened near Osaka Central Masjid. A truly authentic Pakistani halal restaurant, led by a third generation chef with experience working at a famous establishment in Ginza. The warm hospitality of the owner, Abasi, is also a big draw. Alhamdulillah!”(www.halalgourmet.com)

I would discover a few friends/ colleagues of mine were in attendance as a friendly hand grasped my shoulder or a surprised voice shouted my name.

   “How good it is to see you here, my friend! You finally made the trip to our home away from home!” 

 From that point on, with the kitchen churning out non stop naan and roti, and Abbasi ever busy at the door, it was an atmosphere charged with warmth and inclusivity. Thoroughly filled, our talk and conversations spilled out onto the street where we made quite a few new acquaintances, each bidding us a friendly, “Goodbye-come again! “

Traveling back through Chibune to Osaka we felt as though we’d somehow climbed back through a window to another land!  We felt exhilarated at having “crossed that bridge!” Osaka Halal Restaurant had definitely delivered a memorable and authentic meal, and in retrospect we hoped to take part in it again real soon!

Extra Notes on Osaka Halal Restaurant:

Selected as one of the Top 100 Curry Restaurants in WEST for 2019 and 2020. 

Selected as one of the Top 100 Asian and Ethnic Restaurants in WEST for 2022, 2023, and 2024; Had obtained and adhered to strict certification from the Malaysian Halal JAKIM. 

Opened: 2013

Features: 100% halal food, especially on Fridays where they offer a buffet-style meal featuring authentic Pakistani cuisine from the Kashmir region. 

Other Gems by suggestion and Rave Review: 

AANZ  Cafe- Pakistani Halal

4-1-24 Owada, Nishiyodogawa-ku, Osaka 555-0032. [Map]

AANZ is a cafe where you can find home style food cooked in the Pakistani way!”

“Exquisitely spiced” food is the name of the game at this small and charming cafe tucked into the northeastern side of Owada in Nishiyodogawa-ku. The cafe is known for serving top notch authentic Pakistani flavors, with their Paya soup and Haleem, a meat and wheat paste curry, both receiving rave reviews. The kheer dessert with hot chai tea set is popular with women customers. At a mere 600 yen, the dessert is scrumptuously creamy and pairs well with the warming chai.

One customer’s review gives a small window into this quaint cafe:   

I heard from a reviewer that a cafe which used to open at 2 PM has begun offering lunch service, so I decided to check it out. Outside, there’s a waving banner that says “Curry.”

Visitors coming for curry might be a bit surprised by this. This area, also known as Nishiyodostan, has several halal-friendly establishments. Although it advertises itself as a Pakistani cafe, there is actually a substantial food menu available.They offer lunch options starting at JPY 500. 

The server is Japanese, making it easy to ask for recommendations.

Although they mentioned the handwritten menu is still a work in progress, it’s well-organized and cute. The owner explained that they invited skilled chefs from Pakistan to start lunch service.

I saw a woman cooking in the kitchen, which adds to the homemade feel.

They are also planning to introduce warm curry udon soon, which is quite ambitious.

Next time, I’d like to try the haleem.

Their lunchtime service menu offers three 500 yen one coin lunch specials. Each special is a set that includes curry, chapati or rice, and salad. The A set is beans curry, the B set is vegetable curry, and the C set, my recommendation, is chicken curry with your choice of bone in or boneless. Their menu also includes popular Japanese items as well, with the beef udon bowl being a favorite choice.

PC: Kobegurume.nethttps://kobegurume.net/2016/07/09/biryani-sitara-haral-restaurant/

One of the cute aspects of this quaint cafe is their hand-made menus!  All are hand-written in Japanese and English and come with captions in Japanese that explain the food’s ingredients. I have not ascertained whether or not the owners are Japanese, but it would seem that their target is the local clientele.  Located a bit of a distance from the Masjid and other restaurants, AANZ seems to have found their own niche in Owada!  Go see them as soon as you can!

Sitara Halal Restaurant

4-12-31 Owada, Nishiyodogawa Ward, Osaka City, Osaka Prefecture 555-0032. [Map]

“Quality, authentic ingredients are No. 1!” 

If one were to draw a triangle from the Chibune Bridge steps, as (A) north west of Owada Island, then with the Masjid at (B) in the southeast, point (C) would designate northeast opposite (B). Only a two minute walk between points B and C sits Owada’s second most famous Pakistani restaurant, Sitara Halal (no known connection to Sitara Spice shop at this time.) According to online sources, both  Osaka Halal and Sitara set up shop in Owada in 2013. Which is first is not stated however Sitara was opened on February 28, 2013. 

PC: Muslim-guide.jp https://muslim-guide.jp/restaurant/osaka-halal-restaurant-sitara/

The owner, fluent in Japanese and something of an entrepreneur, dealt in cars for ten years before turning to life as a chef. Having cooked professionally for a total of fifteen years, he is the next hottest restaurant on the radar here in Owada. The owner’s policy is that every last ingredient used comes directly from Pakistan, is 100 percent authentic, and 100 percent halal. (Update: There is a rumor that management has since changed to Nepali ownership, but this remains unconfirmed.)

While dishes such as biryani are, as anywhere, a hot item, other dishes on the fairly vast menu include mutton curry, mutton tikka, a spicy ginger yogurt based curry, Lahori chana, a lentil curry, haleem, a meat, wheat, and bean based stew, Kashmiri dal, a mildly spiced bean curry, and paratha.

PC: Muslim-guide.jp https://muslim-guide.jp/restaurant/osaka-halal-restaurant-sitara/

Said one customer:

“The mutton masala curry was soft and creamy, its roux unbelievable. Rich and flavorful with just the right balance of spiciness for Japanese tastes, though stronger than other ethnic restaurants, it blended well with the umami of the overall dish. For me the stronger spiciness was just right. The layer of oil atop the mutton masala was irresistible. Absolutely delicious. Lately I enjoy coming here on my return from work as well. They often have thin, crispy roti that are delicious.”

Like Osaka Halal, Sitara Halal also has a Friday buffet featuring biriyani, two types of curry- decided on the day- salad with a spicy dressing,, round shaped naan/roti,  and serve-your-own Chai tea. At ¥1200 however, Sitara Halal’s buffet boasts exceptionally great value for your money and is touted to be significantly cheaper than the norm. 

PC: Tabelog.com: Sitara’s famous flatbreads https://tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270407/27071395/

Various sodas and other drinks, as well as a variety of succulent dishes, appear on the regular menu. Many women customers have touted Sitara as a very comfortable place to come and eat lunch on a weekday. One main weekday specialty here is the thali set: mutton curry, bean curry, salad, and chicken biryani, often served on a single thali plate. Come try yours today!

Osaka Halal Mughal Owada (Near Osaka Masjid)

4-12-14 Owada,Nishiyodogawa Ward, Osaka, 555-0032.[Map]

“Come here and relax! Enjoy Pakistani food in a space that makes you feel as though you were abroad! We guarantee 100% Halal food with Malaysian Halal standard certification (MS1500) for all our ingredients!”

Osaka Mughal Halal, not to be confused with the Mughal stores owned by SA Group Ltd. listed further down in this article, has recently opened their restaurant exactly two buildings east of the Osaka Masjid main entrance. So close, in fact, that they made it a point to include their proximity to the Masjid in the name of their shop.

This renovated house turned restaurant is a family and children friendly restaurant with a multilingual menu provided in five + languages.  Wheel chair friendly with counter space, table space and ample room, this restaurant urges people to:

“This restaurant offers a delightful experience of traditional Pakistani cuisine and trendy Middle Eastern dishes. Our signature biryani, with over 50,000 servings to date, is a masterpiece cooked with our unique spice masala. The fluffy, separate texture of the rice sourced from the region is simply exquisite. Do not miss the rare Middle Eastern dish mandi, and our curry and naan set served in a large iron pot, just like in the local style. The restaurant features a cozy atmosphere with counter and table seating. Feel free to drop by!”

Osaka Mughal Halal Nishiyodogawa was one of the  Pakistani restaurants featured in the Expo 2025.  Says one customer: 

“This restaurant’s  biryani offers incredible value for the money. I visited this place with a friend who introduced me to it at the Expo. I would love to come here once a week!”

One of the main draws at this restaurant is the variety of spicy mixed grill plates they offer: a chicken roast special plate, a mutton roast special, and a grilled sajji full chicken on rice plate special.

For those who just want a quick bite to eat, their rolled kebab sandwich with fries, and a wide variety of halal grilled pizzas come as highly rated, irresistible choices! Try yours today!

PC: moriguchikadoma.goguynet.jp https://moriguchikadoma.goguynet.jp/2020/02/23/biriyaninoie/

House of Biryani Restaurant and Billiards (Moriguchi)

1F Araman Building, 2-7-5 Terauchicho, Moriguchi, Osaka 570-0056 [Map]

“Open your world to the colors and authentic tastes of south Asian cuisine!”

Care for a little game of pool with your biryani order? Get ready to cue up your sticks because “billiards and biryani” are the name of the game at the House of Biryani in Moriguchi. The center of the restaurant features a full size professional Brunswick pool table. And if you bring the kids, there is a foosball table for them just beyond it. The shop owner and chef is a long time pool aficionado. He will not only cook your order but teach you how to rack a set of nine balls. Care to know how to sink the eight ball with a five rail bank shot? He is your man.

PC: Tabelog.com: https://tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270101/27042341/dtlphotolst/smp2/

Judging by the menu and the extensive, beautiful options that are offered, pool is not his only talent. House of Biryani is highly rated as the place to go for some of the best South Asian cuisine around.

Just a short walk from Moriguchi Station in Osaka, the restaurant caters to a large audience at both lunch and dinner. Being a “house of biryani,” the national dish of Pakistan, one immediately wonders what might be the most original and best tasting type of biryani on their menu.

House specialties we mention here today are their three best selling types, ranked as follows: number one, boneless mutton biryani; number two, their mouthwatering House Special Chicken Tikka Biryani; and number three, a favorite among lunchtime patrons, their creamy, nutty flavored chickpea biryani.

Extras on the menu range from curries to chai.Have your pick today at House of biryani!

Osaka Halal Mughal (SA Group LTD.) Hommachi & Dojima Shops

Hommachi Shop:1-6-7 Nishihonmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 550-0005. [Map]

Dojima Shop: 9 Dojima Underground Shopping Center, Dojima 1-chome, Kita Ward, Osaka. [Map]

”The biggest and best Naan is served here!”

In the bustling commercial corridors of central Osaka, the scent of cardamom, cumin, and slow-simmered curry drifts through office districts better known for ramen shops and izakayas. SA Group LTD of Hommachi is the company behind two of the city’s most established halal Pakistani restaurants: Osaka Halal Mughal – Honmachi and Osaka Halal Mughal – Dojima.  These two sister shops are conveniently located and cater to a diverse crowd, from locals to tourists, serving authentic Halal-certified meals. 

PC: Tabelog.com: https://tabelog.com/imgview/original?id=r95072153119790

The name “Mughal” (Urdu: مغل) references the historical Mughal dynasty of South Asia, known for royal courts, architectural grandeur, and refined cuisine. Mughlai food is celebrated for its layered spices, slow-cooked meats, creamy gravies, and aromatic rice dishes – culinary traditions that still shape Pakistani and North Indian kitchens today.

PC: Tabelog.com: https://tabelog.com/imgview/original?id=r91752120130076 (2019 photo; Does NOT reflect current pricing.

Osaka Mughal Halal stays true to these roots, offering homemade-style dishes with generous portions.

PC: Tabelog.com Osaka Halal Mughal Restaurant : Biriyani Special Set; https://tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270106/27004028/dtlmenu/

The menu boasts a range of specialties, including the Biriyani set, curries, and the Assorted Grill Set Mix with 5 kinds of grilled meat : Tandoori chicken, chicken tikka, garlic tikka, chicken seekh kebab, and mutton seekh kebab- a perfect platter to share amongst friends! Care for some tasty vegetarian side orders? Whet your appetite with their fried pakora veggie platter, and Chana Chat Chickpea Salad! With lunch sets priced around ¥1,000-¥1,500, and dinner not too much higher, Osaka Mughal Halal is a competitive option in today’s inner city dining scene.

Together, these restaurants are doing more than serving food. They are helping redefine what it means to dine halal in Japan. From Japanese locals, businessmen, Islamic residents and students, to tourists searching the city for Halal certified meals, the location of these two restaurants, (one in the basement of an underground shopping center, and the second located between two main train lines) both make for easy access in the inner city.

As one customer raved, the restaurant’s curry sets, available even at night through QR code ordering, are a highlight. With two locations in Dojima and Nipponbashi, Osaka Halal Mughal invites you to experience the flavors of Pakistan and North India.

  The Bigger Picture: Community, Belonging & Cultural Exchange

Halal dining in Japan has evolved from niche to necessary. With Osaka positioning itself as an international tourism hub — especially in anticipation of global events and increased foreign travel — access to reliable halal restaurants in central districts is no longer optional. It is the drive behind many new entrepreneurs setting up shop here in the big city today. The necessity to provide a piece of home seems to be the common push behind each restaurant mentioned in this article. The further need to be inclusive and have open doors, offering a bridge others can cross to share in their culture seems to be the higher calling.

Osaka International Expo 2025

Pakistan’s successful participation in Expo 2025 Osaka, Japan, concluded on Tuesday with a grand closing ceremony that highlighted the country’s exceptional presence throughout the six-month global event.
The ceremony was attended by Abdul Hameed, Section Commissioner General of Pakistan at Expo 2025, Muhammad Naseer, Pakistan’s Ambassador-designate to Japan, Madiha Ali, Trade and Investment Counsellor, and Noor Jehan Bilgrami, curator of the Pakistan Pavilion.
Held under the overarching theme “Designing Future Society for Our Lives,” the Expo brought together 158 nations, each showcasing their culture, innovation, and vision for a sustainable future. The Pakistan Pavilion proved to be one of the standout attractions, drawing over 1.8 million visitors, the highest ever recorded for any Pakistani pavilion at a World Expo.
-The Diplomatic Insight
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Inclusivity. This dynamic of a diaspora community preserving identity while encouraging cultural exchange speaks to a larger narrative, the blending and coexistence of cultures in modern cities. In a day and age where narratives often paint entire cultures and religions with a broad brush, the simplicity of traditional foods stands in the gap and welcomes people to come together in camaraderie. For the Pakistani residents of Chibune and Owada, it is less about exile and erasure of culture and more about the preservation of culture and inviting others to join in, share, and take part in those traditions from home.

I hope I have made you hungry, not only for food and spice, but for a cultural exchange that you would not experience if you were not looking for it! Thank you for joining us on our search for spice and Pakistan. This has been from our communities in wider Osaka to Pakistan with love!

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

Author

  • Wes Wesson

    As a resident of Kansai for 23+years, and living in Japan for over 28, Wes has consistently taken a back roads approach to the road less travelled.  With passion for traveling the countryside, fishing the seas, and exulting in the riches of forest and field, Wes enjoys combining these with the work of his hands and old recipes from home.  Farming his own fresh, organic produce, cooking and collaborating with other fresh growers and connoisseurs of produce, Wes has opened many a door near and far, to creativity and inspiration from garden to many a table.

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Previous articleWar in Iran Impacts Osaka: This Week in Osaka: February 20th to 13th 2026
Wes Wesson
As a resident of Kansai for 23+years, and living in Japan for over 28, Wes has consistently taken a back roads approach to the road less travelled.  With passion for traveling the countryside, fishing the seas, and exulting in the riches of forest and field, Wes enjoys combining these with the work of his hands and old recipes from home.  Farming his own fresh, organic produce, cooking and collaborating with other fresh growers and connoisseurs of produce, Wes has opened many a door near and far, to creativity and inspiration from garden to many a table.

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