Table of Contents
Introduction
Expo 2025 is in full swing and it seems like there are more visitors to Osaka than ever this month. Here is our curated list of the best restaurants, bars, live shows and exhibitions to check out this month. What a great honor that Osaka will be graced by none other than Nicholas Cage this month, one of the finest actors of his generation, known for his over the top performances. I think he’ll feel right at home in Osaka.
Ehon Bar Gabu (Ame-Mura)
Address: 2 Chome-9-5 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0086. Tel: 06-6211-1805. Open: 20:00-5:00. Closed: Sun. Website.
Mittera Kaikan is a four-story building in Ame-Mura, built over 50 years ago, and home to around 60 bars, each with a unique theme reflecting the interests of its owner. Many of these bars are small, seating only 6 to 8 people at the counter, creating an intimate atmosphere. It’s the perfect spot if you happen to miss the last train, as most of the bars stay open until around 5 A.M. Balabushka, a darts and pool bar on the first floor has been a popular hang out for foreigners for years.
Ehon Bar Gabu is a bar located on the first floor that is devoted to picture books. I don’t mean graphic novels or art books aimed at adults, but children’s books such a The Very Hungry Caterpillar and Where The Wild Things Are. The tiny bar has a collection of around 1,000 books on its shelves and the complete list can be seen here. There are also toys and stuffed animals of popular characters from children’s books.
I brought my wife M. to this bar because she doesn’t drink alcohol and wanted to find a place where she could feel at home as she has always been a big fan of picture books. The bar is owned by a gentleman with an impressive haircut named Tsuyoshi Adachi who looks like he stepped out of a picture book aimed for children. The reason he started the bar is an impressive tale in itself, one that fortunately has a happy ending.
Dreams and Reality
According to an article in the Asahi Shinbun, Adachi dreamed of opening a bar in the Mittera Kaikan as a young man. There was only one problem: His parents suffered from crippling debt that they could not get out of. In order to help them, he took a job doing sales for disreputable firm that was involved with scams and he was arrested and given a suspended sentence at the age of 25. Even after getting a second chance, Adachi was not able to change his ways due to his mountain of debt.
A Chance Encounter with a Book
One day on a sales trip to Nagasaki, Adachi found a childrens book in a business hotel called Undekureta, Arigato (The Gift of Life) by Yoh Shomei that changed his life. After reading the book, Adachi was able to turn his life around for good. He decided to open a bar for people who love picture books, because unlike a cafe, people sitting at a bar could discuss them more easily. Customers are encouraged to bring their favorite books to share with others.
The Drunken Wolf
Since Ehon Bar Gabu opened in 2010, Adachi has organized events and been involved in bringing picture books to a larger audience. To mark the bar’s 10th anniversary, Adachi published his first book called Yopparaidore Okame (The Drunken Wolf) which you can read at the bar, along with the second book in the series. I really enjoyed the fact that the bar menu is a picture book! You can order cocktails or Heartland Beer. Like most places in the building there is a small charge.
I have spent countless hours in bars discussing music, films and literature, but I can state for the record that this was the very first time I had a nice conversation about some of my favorite authors from childhood such as Maurice Sendak and Arnold Lobel. I started to recall books I hadn’t thought about in years like Harry The Dirty Dog and The Small Pig. My wife also had fun picking out nostalgic books and discovering a few new ones. This is really a special bar and worth a visit.
Bar Nikorasu Keiji (Ame-Mura) Bar ニコラス刑事
Address: 2 Chome-9-5 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0086 1F. Tel: 06-6484-5039. Open: 19:00-
As we were leaving Mittera Kaikan, my wife pointed out a bar called Nikorasu Keiji, which translates as “Police Detective Nicholas” that happens to sound like the famous actor when you say it out loud. Wow, I just stumbled on what has to be the only Nicholas Cage-themed bar in all of Japan! We didn’t have enough time to go inside for a quick drink, but from the scant info I found on social media, the owner is a native of Okinawa and serves Okinawan food and oden. At one point, there was a photo of Nicholas Cage on the sign, but it seems to have been painted over.
I noticed a sign on the door that said something like, “I can’t speak any foreign languages, but won’t you come inside and try to speak a little Japanese with me?” I thought this was a thoughtful way to welcome foreigners while making it clear that the owner can only speak Japanese. If you’d like to meet other Nicolas Cage fans and practice your Japanese, this is the perfect bar for you. I wonder what the owner’s top five Nicolas Cage films are—something to discuss when I decide to drop in.
Nicholas Cage is Coming to Osaka this Month!
Coincidentally, the actor himself will be attending Osaka Comic Con at Intex Osaka on May 3rd and May 4th. If you meet Nicholas Cage, which costs ¥31,000 please let him know there is a bar in Osaka named after him. Nicholas Cage drinking at Nikorasu Keiji, would be the most Nicholas Cage thing ever. Since his wife Riko is Japanese, he can bring her along to translate his colorful way of speaking English.
Nabeya (Nishinari) すき焼･鍋物 なべや
2 Chome-6-5 Tengachayakita, Nishinari Ward, Osaka, 557-0003. Tel: 06-6632-5716. Open: 14:00-21:00. Closed: Wed
I don’t usually go out for sukiyaki because I have never found a restaurant that makes it better than my mother-in-law. That being said, I have wanted to visit Nabeya in Nishinari for over a decade, back when the price of a sukiyaki meal was only ¥600! The price has gone up to a little over a thousand yen, but still an incredible deal considering inflation. Nabeya is located on a side street that runs parallel to Sankaku Koen (Triangle Park), not to be confused with the one in Ame-Mura. This one is quite different. Although the area has improved considerably in recent years, travelers unfamiliar with this part of Nishinari should exercise caution and refrain from filming anyone without permission.
Reservations Recommended
One of the reasons I have never visited Nabeya is because you need to make a reservation by phone. You do have the option of waiting in line if a spot opens up, but there is no guarantee you will get in. Unfortunately, due to the language barrier, this has caused many misunderstandings, and several one star reviews with comments like “Gave us the no foreigners x fingers…Extremely disappointed with Osaka people. I thought they were friendly.” The restaurant could easily solve this problem with “Reservations Required” written in English, but who am I to tell them how to run their business?
Group vs Solo Dining
I didn’t have a reservation, but was let in immediately because I was alone and there were a couple of seats still available I was seated at a table with four students studying at a Japanese Language School from China, Germany, The UK and Russia, which I found this out when one of the students decided to practice the language by asking a question in very polite Japanese about the food to a middle aged man sitting at the next table. He turned out to be a fluent English speaker who then proceeded to pepper the entire group with questions of his own for the duration of their meal, which they didn’t seem to mind at all. They were in the moment, taking in their surroundings and enjoying their meal.
Cooked to Perfection
I ordered the sukiyaki (¥1,000) plus a large bowl of rice (¥250) and a bottle of Asahi Beer (¥600). The sukiyaki was very good, although not as sweet as I am used to, but it was full of sprouts, leeks and other fresh vegetables. I read some reviews online that the servers were “gruff” but I thought they were very helpful in preparing the meal. The place was packed and they had many other customers to attend to; it’s not the type of place where you exchange pleasantries with the staff. I was asked if I wanted a raw egg with my meal and I don’t believe there was any extra charge. Not everyone orders it, but I think dipping the meat into the yolk is the best part of eating sukiyaki.
Although I enjoyed my meal, I realized that I blew it by coming here alone. It seemed like every other person in the place had a dining companion, chatting and laughing and sharing the meal, and here I was sitting at another party’s table eating sukiyaki for one. I usually don’t mind eating alone, but in this case it took away from the experience. Next time I’ll invite my family or go with a few good friends.
Hana no Yama (Nishinari) 花の山
2-chōme-3 Haginochaya, Nishinari Ward, Osaka, 557-0004 Tel: 06-6649-6517. Open: 9:30-19:00. Closed: Wed
Here’s another option for sukiyaki in Nishinari for those who don’t feel like making a reservation or waiting on line. Hana no Yama is located in the Haginochaya Shotengai just three minutes on foot from Nabeya. I found about it from locals who recommended it as one of the cheapest restaurants in the area. The menu consists of good hearty food prepared with care.
Unbelievably, the sukiyaki was only ¥380 the first time I had it years ago and I expected the price to double by now, but as of 2025 the price is just ¥450 for a dish that includes beef, udon noodles, tofu, mushrooms Chinese Cabbage, and a few other items. Does it come close to the portion Nabeya serves? No, there is obviously less beef for that price but this dish is still filing. And you’ll still have room for some other items like oden (¥150) and kimchi nabe (¥450).
Alcohol at Hana no Yama is reasonably priced, with shochu starting at ¥200, chu-hai at ¥350, a mug of draft beer for ¥500, and a large bottle of beer for ¥600. The patrons here are friendly, but you will not feel out of place if you come alone. There is even the option of watching boat racing on one of the screens above, which is very popular in this part of town.
Miyako Stand (Tennoji) 都スタンド
9-16 Hidenincho, Tennoji Ward, Osaka, 543-0055. Tel:06-6771-8529. Open: 17:00-23:00.
I ducked into Miyako Stand in Tennoji last month for the first time in 10 years. Judging from upside down sign out front, which is somewhat haphazardly attached with a flimsy rope, I had assumed that it went out of business years ago. When I went around back I noticed that the light was on and tried peeking in but couldn’t see anything through the glass. The owner must have noticed me scampering outside because he opened the door and invited me in.
At first I was hesitant, but he turned out to be a very friendly guy who enjoys chatting with customers (Although it was empty at the time). He told me that the restaurant was started 74 years ago by his grandfather. Having already eaten a big meal, I just ordered a bottle of Kirin Black and an order of tebasaki chicken wings, which was garnished with lettuce and a sprinkling of red ginger. I honestly wasn’t expecting much but the wings turned out to be very tasty.
Upside Down Sign Explained
I asked the owner about the upside down sign out front. He said it was toppled in a typhoon several years ago. When he had someone cart away the sign, they told him it was connected electric cable and the cost of removing it was between a million and 3 million yen. So the sign has been like this for years and you have to enter through the back. The owner said he plans to retire in a few years and it doesn’t pay to fix the sign. I think it adds character to the place and definitely stands out on the busy street.
Hanshin Tigers on Parade
The bar is decorated with Hanshin Tigers memorabilia, some of it quite old, and the owner told me he had just been to a game and picked up a limited edition cap. When I told him that I was from America, he said that he cousin had just returned from a trip to Hawaii and was shocked by how expensive everything was due to the weak yen, especially the price of food at restaurants. I replied American tourists will have no such problem here since everything hovers around ¥500.
Good for Groups
I recommend Stand Miyako for anyone giving tours to visitors who are in the mood for something rough around the edges There are about 12 seats at the counter and it is usually not crowded, so it it perfect for a group. Be advised that the chairs have not been re-upholstered in a very long time, but the yellow duct tape holding them together look like they have been imported from a dive bar on The Bowery in NYC in the late 70s.
Just before I left, a regular in a sharp suit sat down, ordered a drink, lit up a cigarette, and then unfolded a sports newspaper. It was like he stepped through a portal from another time. Some things in Osaka will never change.
Nomcraft Taproom Juso ノムクラフトタップルーム十三
1 Chome-11-16 Jusohonmachi, Yodogawa Ward, Osaka, 532-0024. Tel: N /A. Open: 16:00-23:00. Closed: Wed Instagram
Nomcraft Brewery is located in the town of Aridagawa, Wakayama. It was started in 2019 by two former English teachers, Adam Baran from Chicago and Ben Emrich from Portland, who quit their jobs in 2017 and returned to American to gain the skills they needed to fulfill their dream of starting their own brewery in Japan, which they opened on the site of a former nursery school. You can read more about their fascinating journey in a 2023 article written by Osaka.com writer Julian Houseman for The Japan Beer Times.
Aridagawa, which truly sounds like a lovely town and I would be up for a road trip to visit the brewery. However, you don’t have to make the 90-minute trek from Osaka because Nomcraft has just opened their own taproom near Juso Station, just two stops away from Umeda, that features 15 taps. I’m looking forward to trying their Octoopus King IPA and the Momo no Kai Peach Passion Fruit Sour. Sausages and French Fries are available but you can also bring in food from the many shops outside or even order from UberEats, a rarity in Japan.
An event will be held on May 18th (12:00-22:00) to celebrate the 6-year anniversary of Nomcraft Brewery with music by DJ Yoshimi of High Tide.
Yuskuke Hanai Board Shorts Exhibition at Brooklyn Roasting Namba on May 9
Yusuke Hanai is a popular artist who has been drawing a one-frame comic strip for 10 years for The Surfer’s Journal Japan called BOARD SHORTS” which captures the life of surfers from his unique perspective. In November of 2024, Hanai’s strips were compiled into a single volume in an impressive hardcover book, which was followed by a gallery show in Tokyo the same year.
The same exhibition comes to Osaka this month, not at a gallery but at the Brooklyn Roasting Company’s Namba location on May 9th. Yusuke Hanai will appear in person to autograph books so come on down and meet the artist and check out his original artwork while enjoying a cup of coffee. You can even pick up a commemorative t-shirt, which I’m sure the artist will sign without charging ¥31,000 yen like Nicholas Cage (see above). Check out his Instagram here.
Recommended Live Music
Eggplant Reunion: Gathering 2025 at Umeda Club Quattro on May 5th EGGPLANT 同窓会
Eggplant was a legendary live music club that operated in the located in Hanazono in Nishinari-ku from 1984 to 1989. Bands such Hijo Kaidan, OUTO, S.O.B., Continental Kids, Boredoms, Newest Model, Sekiri, Hanadensha and Shonen Knife were all regular performers at Eggplant. It came as quite a shock when the live house and practice studio was torn down to make room for a parking lot.
Even though Eggplant only lasted for five years members the scene that it spawned has never forgotten its importance. There have been Eggplant reunions in 1999 and 2010 and the lasted gathering will be held May 5th featuring The Genbaku Onanies, The Trash, Bull The Dougs, S.h.i, Incapacitants, Yamamoto Seichi (Boredoms/Omoide Hatoba), Atsushi Tsuyama (Acid Mothers Temple), S.O.B. (with the singer from OUTO) and one other band.
I had the honor of seeing Off Mask OO at Eggplant back in 1988 and can tell you it was a very special place. Tickets are ¥5000 and can be purchased online here or from Umeda Club Quattro on the day of the event. The show starts at 14:00.
Homefront (Canada) at Hokage on May 25
Homefront tours Japan for the first time with a stop at Hokage in Ame-Mura on May 25th. The post-punk band was formed in 2021 in Edmonton, Alberta and has a sound that has been described as “a blend of both punk and new wave influences.” I honestly don’t know much about this band, but was hooked after hearing their single, Nation, which was released in 2023. Sometimes it takes just one listen to a song to get you to see a show and this is one of those times. I’ll have the rest of the month to catch up with their discography before they hit Osaka.
Unfortunately, the lineup and pricing of the Osaka show have not been released as of press time. Check the Hokage website and the band’s Facebook page for updates. You might want to pick up an advance ticket for this one since there is a possibility it could sell out.
