Hilton Osaka has been part of the Umeda skyline since 1986, and this year the landmark hotel marks its 40th anniversary. What better way to celebrate a special occasion than at the hotel itself? We spent an evening at CENTRUM, the hotel’s American steakhouse, and MYPLACE, its cafe and bar, to see what an evening here is really like.
Table of Contents
Introduction
How do you plan the ideal celebration? Especially in a city the size of Osaka, where there are so many excellent restaurants and places to celebrate that choosing one can quickly become a full-time research project? My wife, Mami, and I are celebrating our 30th anniversary this year, and for reasons I still can’t explain, I was put in charge of planning it. A major milestone in our marriage had somehow been entrusted to the man who had recently left the house wearing two different shoes. I could have handled the 29th anniversary. Nobody expects much from 29. You go out, have a nice dinner, maybe exchange a card. But 30? The big three-oh? That’s different. That’s an anniversary with expectations. So naturally, I did what any responsible husband would do: I put it off until there were only a couple of weeks left.
The answer came about almost by accident. In early July, Osaka.com publisher Allan Hsu visited Japan with his parents. Allan lives in Australia, while his parents are based in Taipei, and I can’t think of a better way to honor your parents than taking them on an international trip together. At their age, though, choosing the right hotel mattered. It needed to be central, comfortable, and have multilingual staff who could help with whatever they needed.
Allan chose Hilton Osaka, and he and his parents ate at the hotel’s restaurants frequently during their stay, enjoying the experience enough that he spoke to one of the staff about his interest in having Osaka.com do a story on the hotel. The hotel has five restaurants and bars across its first and second floors, from Japanese cuisine and sushi at KawaUme and teppanyaki at TENKA to the American-style steakhouse CENTRUM and all-day dining at Folk Kitchen. There’s also MYPLACE on the ground floor, a cafe and bar that runs from morning coffee to late-night cocktails. After a few emails back and forth, the hotel suggested CENTRUM and MYPLACE as the best fit for what Osaka.com had in mind.
I was assigned to interview a member of the staff, and during my visit I liked the atmosphere, the hospitality and the food we tasted. Then it hit me: a hotel celebrating its 40th anniversary might be an especially fitting place for us to celebrate our 30th. After months of avoiding the problem, I had somehow stumbled onto the answer. A couple of days later, I quietly made an online reservation on my own at CENTRUM, without telling anyone I had met at the Hilton that we were coming. We paid for everything ourselves, with no special arrangement of any kind. I was looking forward to returning during normal business hours with my wife and getting the full experience.
Arriving at Hilton Osaka
Our house is over an hour from Hilton Osaka by train but only about 40 minutes by car, so we decided to drive. My wife did some research and discovered that spending ¥10,000 or more at any hotel restaurant gets you two hours of free parking, even if you aren’t a guest. That made the decision easy, and we drove straight into the hotel’s underground parking lot.
We took the elevator to the second floor and wandered over to the railing overlooking the lobby. The huge egg-shaped lattice sculpture, Birth, was right there. Designed by Yukio Hashimoto, an interior and spatial designer known for his work on hotels, restaurants and boutiques, it stretches from the first floor all the way to the third. Seen up close, the layers of metal and intricate latticework are even more impressive.
The Second Floor Restaurants
Hashimoto also designed the restaurant area, where the four restaurants flow into one another rather than feeling like separate destinations. The open layout gives the whole floor a much more connected feel, with the central atrium tying everything together. It reflects the hotel’s “Dine Around” concept: respect for food rooted in the region, a place to gather and enjoy food together, and the pleasure of exploring from one place to another.
KawaUme and TENKA share the same entrance. Through the restaurant’s glass window, we noticed a multi-tiered display of komadaru, traditional sake barrels wrapped in woven straw and bound with red and black rope. Once used to store and transport sake, they are still displayed today as symbols of celebration and hospitality. Further along, Folk Kitchen opens directly onto the corridor, with colorful salads and vegetables, pastries and a row of red, white and blue enameled cast-iron pots on display. Two chefs in white toques worked behind the counter against a blue-and-white tiled wall, preparing and plating dishes in full view.
CENTRUM Grill & Wine: Dinner at Hilton Osaka
CENTRUM underwent a concept rennovation in 2024, reopening as the American-style steakhouse it is today, built around a wood-fired grill and an expanded wine program. The restaurant sits at the physical center of the second floor’s four restaurants, which fits, since its name is Latin for “center.”
The exterior caught our attention as soon as we arrived. A huge black lattice screen frames the entrance, with angled sections rising and folding into one another like an enormous piece of modern origami. Light filters through the gaps, while a red glow from inside adds to the effect. The name CENTRUM appears in white letters at the center.
When we entered, it felt like a special place. The same pattern from the entrance ran across the ceiling too, thin strips of white light in the same shapes. Red chairs and dark wood tables filled the room. At the far end, the kitchen was open, and we could see the cooks working behind the counter as we walked to our table. The cinematic lighting made us feel like classic Hollywood movie stars, if only for one night.
Mami’s thoughts: In this modern, chic space, with its striking straight lines and warm red-and-black tones, I was already happy. The cushion behind my back felt so nice.
The Signature Set at CENTRUM
CENTRUM has three set menus: the Grill Experience at ¥8,500, the CENTRUM Set at ¥10,000, and the Signature Set at ¥15,500. We sat down still pretending this was going to be a difficult decision. It wasn’t. Mami, who is usually the voice of reason, took one look at the menu and went straight for the most expensive option. Signature, baby! I was perfectly happy with that decision since I had already decided on the same thing.
We added the half Canadian lobster for another ¥2,500. Thirty years of marriage seemed like a pretty compelling excuse to treat ourselves.
Seafood on Ice, with half Canadian lobster
The seafood arrived on a raised glass tier packed with crushed ice, with half a Canadian lobster at the back. Its tail was left exposed and the antennae stood straight up, giving the presentation a little extra character.
Two shell-on prawns curled forward, while six scallops were arranged in two groups of three, each sitting in its own shell and topped with black caviar and a small piece of tosaka nori, a red-and-green cockscomb seaweed used as garnish. Two opened mussels showed off their orange-gold flesh, and a thick-cut piece of glossy orange salmon rested on a bed of sea moss.
Everything looked exceptionally fresh, and there was plenty to work through. The cold seafood had that clean, refreshing quality that makes you want to keep going from one shell to the next, with each item offering something different.
A four-compartment sauce caddy came alongside it with a cocktail sauce, made from mayonnaise, ketchup, horseradish and Tabasco, a lemon wedge, plain mayonnaise, and cube-cut ponzu jelly, an amber-colored garnish with a sharp citrus flavor that worked particularly well with the seafood.
The lobster was the obvious highlight. The meat was sweet, firm and succulent, with a clean, delicate flavor that needed very little added to it. The scallops were excellent too, especially with the little hit of caviar on top.
It was a elegant way to start the meal. Fresh seafood, plenty of variety, and a half lobster sitting there waiting for you. You really couldn’t ask for much more.
Mami’s thoughts: A gorgeous seafood tower arrives. Scallops served on ice, topped with caviar, along with mussels and salmon. Then the additional lobster arrives. Cubes of ponzu jelly sparkle on top, echoing the design of the restaurant. Try eating the salmon with the jelly, then adding a little more jelly as you go! Is that bad manners? Maybe, but it’s delicious.
Roasted Summer Tomato Soup
The roasted summer tomato soup followed the seafood course, bringing a welcome change from the chilled seafood. It arrived in a wide, shallow black bowl, its deep brick-orange color standing out against the dark ceramic. A small well in the center gave it a carefully considered presentation, with basil oil, a dollop of whipped cream and small cubes of crouton arranged in a loose swirl across the surface.
The soup had a lovely depth of roasted tomato flavor, with the roasting bringing out the natural sweetness of the tomatoes while taking some of the sharpness out of the acidity. The basil oil added a fresh herbal note, the cream gave it a little extra richness, and the croutons provided a pleasant bit of texture.
Mami’s thoughts: A soup as beautiful as a painting. As for the taste, even Anton Ego, the sharp-tongued critic from Ratatouille, would close his eyes and smile.
Sourdough Bread
The bread arrived whole, sitting in a polished silver bowl lined with a linen napkin. A deep cross had been cut into the top before baking, leaving four big sections of mahogany-brown crust, with lighter, flour-dusted edges between them. It looked almost too good to break into.
The crust gave way easily as we tore into it, revealing a soft, airy interior with a gentle sourdough tang. There was enough flavor to give the bread some character without overpowering it. Spread with butter while still warm, it became even better. The crisp crust, soft center and richness of the butter made each piece hard to resist.
Sourdough can be surprisingly hard to find in Osaka, so when we were offered seconds, we happily accepted.
Mami’s thoughts: A firm, crisp crust on the outside, wonderfully moist and chewy inside. I could eat this bread with butter every day.
Wood-Fired Octopus, Potato, Spicy Aioli
The octopus arrived on a skewer, coated in a glossy BBQ glaze and finished with a zigzag of spicy mayonnaise and a sprinkling of aonori. The combination immediately brought takoyaki to mind, with the savory-sweet glaze, creamy sauce and green seaweed giving it a familiar Osaka connection, though the kitchen tells us that wasn’t intentional, just a happy coincidence.
Then I took a bite and was completely blown away. The octopus, simmered for about an hour in vegetable bouillon before being finished over charcoal, was incredibly tender, with none of the rubbery texture you sometimes get, and the char had given the outside a deep, smoky flavor. The glaze added sweetness and depth, while the spicy mayonnaise brought a little heat and creaminess. The aonori tied everything together with that unmistakable taste of the sea.
The potato was soft and satisfying, but the octopus was the star. The combination of smoky char, tender meat, sweet glaze, spicy mayonnaise and aonori was ridiculously good. I wasn’t expecting this to be one of the dishes I’d be thinking about afterward, but it was. One of the biggest surprises of the meal, and easily one of my favorites.
Mami’s thoughts: A fun summer skewer barbecue. Octopus with potato. I love octopus. The grilling is perfect, and it’s so delicious. Wait, is that aonori on top? Do the round potatoes look like takoyaki? It’s fun to make that mental connection and think, “Oh yeah, I’m in Osaka right now.“
Wood-Fired Australian Rangers Valley Tenderloin
One of the pleasures of CENTRUM is that the kitchen is completely open, so you can watch the chefs prepare your steak. These were shokunin, highly skilled craftsmen completely focused on their work. Even from across the dining room, you could see the concentration and precision in the way they moved around the kitchen, tending to the steaks with the confidence of people who know their craft inside out.
Then the steak arrives at your table, and suddenly the wait is over. Is there a better feeling in a restaurant than seeing a freshly cooked steak coming toward you, knowing that in a few seconds you’ll be cutting into it? By this point in the meal, the anticipation had been building. The seafood, soup and octopus were all excellent, but this was the main event.
The tenderloin arrived thick and beautifully charred, Australian Rangers Valley beef, with a dark, deeply browned crust. I couldn’t wait to get a knife into it. Inside was a magnificent medium-rare, pink from edge to edge, with juices running onto the plate.
It was, quite simply, one of the best steaks I’ve ever eaten. The beef was so tender it practically melted under the knife, and every bite was rich and full of that deep wood-fired flavor. The red wine sauce, made with veal stock and shallots and finished with butter, added another layer of richness without getting in the way of the meat, while the cherry tomato, seared for color then roasted until tender, brought just enough acidity to cut through it.
Pure bliss. This was exactly what I wanted for our anniversary.
Mami’s thoughts: High-quality meat. The crosshatch of the sear marks and the plate’s curved design really stand out. If I had the means, I’d want to use a plate like this every day.
Side Dishes
The Signature Set includes a choice of two side dishes: potato fries, creamed spinach, mashed potato, mixed green salad, beer-battered Awaji onion rings, grilled zucchini, or corn ribs. Grilled white asparagus is available for an extra ¥2,000. For our anniversary dinner, we chose the corn ribs and beer-battered Awaji onion rings. Both turned out to be excellent choices.
Corn Ribs
Corn ribs are quarters of corn on the cob cut lengthwise that curl up and resemble small ribs when cooked. These came in a small Staub cast-iron dish, which kept them warm while giving the presentation a nice rustic feel. The corn ribs were topped with spicy mayonnaise drizzled back and forth across them, with a little Grana Padano shredded underneath.
The sweet corn and creamy topping worked seamlessly together, with the sauce adding richness without masking the natural sweetness of the corn. They were so easy to eat and so good that they disappeared surprisingly quickly.
Beer-Battered Awaji Onion Rings
The beer-battered Awaji onion rings arrived standing upright in a small metal cup. The batter had a craggy, hand-dipped texture, with plenty of crispy edges that gave them a satisfying crunch. Inside, the onion stayed intact and retained some bite rather than going soft, making a contrast with the crisp coating.
Mami’s thoughts: Honestly, I want to eat everything on the menu. I don’t want to choose. Onion rings: the coating is nice and crispy, and I really like the flavor too. Corn ribs: there’s something more fun about eating things you can actually bite into and eat with your hands.
Every staff member we encountered was exceptionally friendly and professional, but never in a stiff or overly formal way. From the moment we sat down, there was a genuine warmth to the service that made us feel completely at ease. If, like me, you’re not particularly confident when it comes to choosing wine, they guide you through the options like an old friend, offering suggestions without making you feel out of your depth. They also seemed to pick up on how excited we were by each dish, and their enthusiasm as we enjoyed every course became part of the fun.
Coffee, Tea and Dessert
For dessert, we were served the Pineapple Crumble. It’s normally prepared with alcohol, but since Mami was driving, our server was kind enough to make a non-alcoholic version for her. The plate came with “Happy Anniversary” spelled out in chocolate syrup on a piece of white chocolate, a lovely touch to close out the meal. It arrived with coffee and tea, and the portion was just the right size, since we were already planning to save room for something sweet at MYPLACE later on.
Exploring Hilton Osaka After Dinner
We took the escalator down to the lobby, and the whole space opened up around us. The combination of polished stone, wood, red lacquer accents and brass-colored trim give the lobby a timeless elegance that still feels thoroughly modern. The design of it all really impressed me.
There’s the classic grandeur you’d expect from a major international hotel, mixed with a distinctly Japanese sensibility. Every angle seemed to work, upstairs, downstairs, across the atrium, back toward the entrance, there was always something worth looking at, like an abstract painting on the wall or an old grandfather clock. Even the background music was tasteful. One song stood out in particular: “Desert Island Night” by Fabergé.
MYPLACE : Drinks, Dessert and Live Music
MYPLACE, Hilton Osaka’s cafe and bar on the ground floor, changes character throughout the day. Mornings are about coffee, tea, fresh juices and bakery items, followed by sandwiches and salads at lunchtime. In the evening, it shifts into a stylish lounge serving cocktails and bar snacks, with live performances Tuesday through Thursday from 8:00 to 11:00 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 8:15 to 11:30 p.m.
I wasn’t sure we’d have enough room after dinner to tackle one of MYPLACE’s popular cakes or sweets, so I hadn’t made a reservation. But after such an excellent dinner, neither of us was ready to call it a night. We decided to head downstairs and see if we could find a table for a nightcap.
Room with a View
There’s a ¥900 cover charge for non-hotel guests when live music is playing, which felt more than reasonable given what we got for it. We were led to a table in the corner, with a view out the window of the colorful street outside, a nice backdrop for photos. If you take photos of your own at MYPLACE, just be mindful of other customers in frame.
I ordered a Minoh IPA, brewed right here in Osaka and one of my favorite beers. Minoh Beer has been brewing in Minoh since 1997 and has earned a reputation well beyond Osaka, winning numerous awards at international beer competitions. It’s one of those local beers I’m always happy to see on a menu, so finding it here was a pleasant surprise.
Mami was driving, so she asked our server for something non-alcoholic. They pointed her toward the Flower Lagoon Tea, which she loved.
The Cheesecake at MYPLACE
Neither of us could leave without trying the cheesecake, which we spotted in the display case on the way in. The MYPLACE cheesecake brings together three types of cheese: cream cheese, fromage blanc and Camembert. The cheesecake itself is light and soufflé-like, made by folding meringue into the cream cheese and fromage blanc mixture before baking. It’s then topped with a piped Camembert cheese cream, which gives it a richer, slightly more savory character. I really enjoyed the variety of textures, from the airy cheesecake to the creamy topping, and you can taste the distinct character of all three cheeses without any one of them overwhelming the others.
Sabrina and Mari: A Musical Duo Worth Staying For
When we walked in, a duo, Sabrina on vocals and Mari on keyboards, was in the middle of Eric Clapton’s “Change the World.” Their set moved easily between jazz and pop standards, with a couple of songs in particular catching my attention: Billy Joel’s “The Stranger” and “Ellie My Love.”
The latter has an interesting connection to Japan. “Itoshi no Ellie,” written by Keisuke Kuwata and originally recorded by Southern All Stars, was released in 1979. Ten years later, Ray Charles recorded an English version “Ellie My Love,” for a Suntory White whisky commercial. His version became a huge hit in Japan, reaching No. 3 on the Oricon chart.
Sabrina and Mari also took requests. Just tell your server what you’d like to hear and they’d pass the request along. If someone were ever planning to propose, I can’t think of a better moment than getting down on one knee right there while they sang your favorite song.
Mami’s Thoughts: What is it about this place that feels so luxurious? The high ceiling. The windows. It’s like a giant screen, a live view of Yotsubashi-suji right outside. The architectural beauty of Louis Vuitton across the street. The lighting, the interior, the furniture, the live performance. Even the cute-looking three-cheese cheesecake. The texture is perfectly finished. A blue lime-scented mocktail, candy-like in the best way. And those mysterious little bits on the bottom. What are they, I wonder? So good. All five senses have been satisfied, so now I can just relax. In a space this sublime, even the other customers seem to take on a dramatic quality. Matt, leave me be. I’m having a moment here.
Heading Home
We made our way to the parking lot at around 11:00 PM. Before leaving we noticed a detailed model of Hilton Plaza made with LEGO pieces and took some time to admire the handiwork and detail. To our surprise it suddenly lit up. Then we got into our car, and headed home, still feeling giddy with excitement from our memorable evening.
Starting September 18th, CENTRUM will introduce a limited-run 40th Anniversary Set, reviving dishes from Season, the hotel’s original French restaurant, which operated from its 1986 opening until 2008.
