Discover Mitsutera Temple in Shinsaibashi, Osaka, where a 1,300-year-old Buddhist temple now stands within a modern four-star hotel. Explore its history, rituals, art and experiences.
The stunning entrance to Mitsutera Temple‘s main hall as it stands today.
Over the years, the facade of the Mitsutera Temple was a familiar sight on the Midosuji in Shinsaibashi. The Temple’s resemblance to Osaka Castle turned heads and made for a popular photo spot. Also, when the temple’s courtyard was open, it was a quiet space where one could step away from the bustle of shoppers in the surrounding streets.
With a history of around 1300 years, the temple is closely woven in the culture of Osaka, especially with its philosophy of “OKAGE-san” — a phrase representing a feeling of support by others, an expression of gratitude, and the act of passing appreciation on to future generations. The temple is known for its connection to Kobo Daishi, or Kukai, the founder of the Shingon Buddhist tradition.
The temple’s main hall’s last reconstruction occurred in 1808. And miraculously survived the air raids on Osaka in World War II. Some say it was the spirit of OKAGE-san and the blessings of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of compassion and mercy.
Beginning in 2019, Mitsutera undertook a major preservation and redevelopment project to preserve the historic wooden structure. It was decided that only the main hall would be saved, and integrated into a 15-story mixed-use building.
To do so, they used the process of hikiya, a traditional Japanese technique for relocating buildings. This is the same process used recently at Hirosaki Castle in Aomori prefecture, where residents came together to move the castle by pulling it along a track with large ropes. This allows the structure to be carefully separated from its foundation and moved as a whole, avoiding the need to dismantle and rebuild historic structures.
Now the main hall is enveloped by the 4-star Candeo Hotel, which includes a massive Lululemon store.
With land prices and taxes rising in recent years, the practice of sharing space with commercial buildings to generate revenue has become a practical way to preserve and maintain historic buildings in Japan and guarantee their longevity.
To enter the hotel, guests pass Buddhist sculptures and the Temple’s Main Hall in a peaceful space beneath the modern high-rise structure. This contrast of ancient and modern is one of Mitsutera’s defining characteristics. The Candeo Hotel took great care in reflecting the spiritual design of Mitsutera in the hotel’s architecture and color. The architectural and preservation project has also been featured by renowned architecture publication ArchDaily.
Tours and services are offered in The Main Hall: a truly breathtaking space, with endless details to gaze at. All centered by the Eleven-Headed Kannon statue who “watches over and protects people in every direction — 360 degrees — offering compassion to all who visit.”
The ceiling is decorated with more than 200 flower paintings. The pillars and ranma (decorative transoms) are adorned with lacquer, gold leaf, and polychrome decorations, capturing the spirituality of the Buddhist world.
At certain times of day, visitors can experience traditional forms of prayer and spiritual practices that have been cherished in Japan for centuries. Times of services are listed in front of the main hall and online. Guests of the hotel are offered a special package tour of Mitsutera.
Every morning at 7:30 a.m., visitors are welcome to participate in the temple’s morning Buddhist service.
This is the daily practice performed by Buddhist monks. It is a Buddhist practice to “calm the self-centered mind, purify it by aligning it with the Buddha, and live a peaceful life. The sutras chanted during the morning service guide the mind to achieve this.”
No reservation or fee is required.
Next to the hall is the statue of Aizen Myo-o, a deity believed to help people overcome worldly desires and attachments.
According to the Temple “Aizen Myo-o is known as the Buddhist deity who guides people beyond attachment to love, relationships, and human desires, Aizen Myo-o is widely worshipped as a guardian deity associated with finding meaningful connections, success in love, and harmonious relationships with others.”
On the 26th of every month from the Goma Prayer Ceremony (Goma Fire Ritual) takes place in front of the statue from 16:00 to 17:00. participants write their prayers on wooden planks which are burned by the Monks to strengthen one’s relationships and bring good luck.
To the right of the Main Hall are large prayer beads called Juzu, which were created by reusing materials from the original main hall.
When the beads are pulled, they create a deep, loud sound. This act has “a similar meaning to chanting the name of a Buddhist deity, and it is believed that if visitors make a wish in their hearts while pulling the beads, their prayers will reach the Buddha.”
“The prayer beads contain 108 beads, which represents the 108 worldly desires (bonnō) that are said to trouble human beings. By pulling the beads and hearing the sound they create, visitors are believed to be able to cleanse themselves of these worldly attachments and purify their minds.”
Visitors are free to pull the beads at any time.
A Buddhist practice that’s become one of the most popular with visitors to Mitsutera is Eshakyo, in which one can create an original Goshuin (temple stamp).
Eshakyo is derived from Shakyo: the copying of Buddhist scriptures by hand. Mitsutera’s Eshakyo allows visitors an easier process by tracing the sacred characters and images of Buddhist figures.
After completing your Eshakyo, they can be colored, and a personal prayer can be added. The attending monk with complete your work with stamps from the Temple. The Eshakyo experience can be included in guided tours, or visitors can participate on their own between 9 am and 5 pm. ¥500 covers the cost for materials.
The Temple also offers a Buddhist painting course on the first Saturday of the month from 14:00 to 17:00.
Like at most temples, good luck charms, or Omamori are a popular souvenir for visitors. But at Mitsutera you have the chance to make your own, known as the Ryoenko Omamori.
To create the Omamori, a wish is written and placed inside a pouch with Ryoenko, a specially blended incense from Mitsutera Temple. Ryoenko is believed to support meaningful human connections in life.
Inquire at Mitsutera about times and reservations. Cost for materials is ¥1500
The world is changing quickly, and history is fading away or disappearing while “progress” forgets about things that have been important to humans for millennia. Thankfully, Mitsutera Temple has found a way to preserve its past and find new ways to spread the spirt of Buddhism. Next time you find yourself in the crowded streets of Shinsaibashi, take time to breathe, and take in the beauty and tradition of Mitsutera and OKAGE-san.
All photos supplied by Mitsutera Temple
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