Osaka is famous for Takoyaki, fritters, the size of table tennis balls, made from a batter of flour, egg, dashi and soy sauce. They can be topped with a number of ingredients but typically, a worstershire based sauce, mayonaise, green onions, flakes of nori seaweed and bonito. Many variations exist. Osaka, along with another famous city in Japan we shall not discuss, is famous for Okonomiyaki, a savory pancake, the batter is very similar to the aforementioned, cooked on a griddle by either the diner or the establishment, and has even more variations in ingredients and presentation.
These dishes, and others I will introduce, are collectively known as Konamon, or flour based dishes. After the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake and the ravages of the Second World War, rice was very much a luxury and in short supply and these filling dishes became more and more common and popular in the Kansai region and subsequently Osaka became famous as the best place to eat them. Everyone who visits Osaka should try them and with such options and variations of those options, the affordability of these treats and the culinary importance of them, I see no excuse not to. Here are six of my favorite places, details about the establishments, why I recommend them, guides to locate them in the city and photos of what I like to order.
Table of Contents
Sanchan-Ya
Address:1 Chome-12 Nakatsu, Kita Ward, Osaka 531-0071.
Let us begin with our fair city’s most beloved culinary export Takoyaki. Nestled snugly beside Nakatsu Station, one stop from Umeda or Osaka Station on the Midosuji subway line, is Sanchan-Ya. While known for delicious food Osaka is known as well for friendly funny local inhabitants and here you get both. Maybe five or six diners can fit in this small hut so while not ideal for a big group if you are solo or with one or two others don’t miss this place while you are here. The chef is in his late seventies or early eighties but of course is sprightly, cheerful and most of all welcoming. With just Takoyaki, ten for 500 yen, and drinks to offer ordering can be done with your fingers or whatever rudimentary or perfect or native Japanese you have brought with you.
Generous Chunks of Octopus
Not only is the atmosphere great but so are the Takoyaki. Osaka has a long history of commerce and that comes with all the elements including places that will rip you off. There are countless places selling Takoyaki on the streets, in the malls, in department stores and train stations and, if you are not careful, you will find takoyaki with hardly any tako, or octopus, to mention. While I am not a purveyor or have any deep or inside information on the fisheries I am of the understanding that the price of octopus, like the price of everything else, has been and is on the rise. However, the chunks of octopus afforded diners at Sanchan-Ya is generous.
If you imbibe and are keen to have a drink with those out and about Osaka I could not recommend this spot more highly. If you are shy, not in the mood to socialize or a bit intimidated by the cozy atmosphere you can always get your Takoyaki to go and enjoy them anywhere you like.
I got ten Takoyaki very simply dressed with sauce, mayonnaise and bonito. I also had a Lemon Sour canned cocktail, also 500 yen, to enjoy in the hut and a great chat with both the chef and his patrons.
Hanshin Snack Park
Address: B1 floor of the Hanshin Umeda Main Store 1-13-13 Umeda, Kita-ku, Osaka 530-8224
Next up and just one stop away is a one stop shop of great Osaka food! If you are coming to Osaka you will be passing through Umeda or Osaka Station, not to be confused with Shin-Osaka Station where the bullet trains or Shinkansen arrive and disembark, and here is great place to come and eat if you are pressed for time, want to try the famous fare of the city, or are on a tight budget. Takoyaki and Okonomiyaki are also served here but I came here for a favorite of mine called Choboyaki.
Choboyaki
Choboyaki predates Takoyaki and does not contain octopus. The name comes from the way the batter is ladled into square griddles with half-spherical molds drop by drop. Choboyaki contains pickled ginger, konnyaku and soy sauce and the dumplings are not separted. The dish is covered with the same sauce as Takoyaki as well as mayonaise if you like.
It is thinner, more like a crepe and is only 185 yen for a serving. I ordered Choboyaki with Cheese and Mentaiko, a spicy pollock roe, and was less than 300 yen poorer.
Hanshin Snack Park is great to walk around trying a little of this and a little of that since the stalls are all together and you eat standing up and finding plenty of space.
Ikayaki
Ikayaki means grilled squid and is usually just that, served all over Japan in restaurants but also on a skewer as a street food at festivals and near the sea. Ikayaki, in Osaka, is a small squid pancake, cooked very quickly, in under a minute, sandwiched between two griddles.
Here is the basic version for just 187 yen. While a fishy pancake may sound unappetizing to western pallets to the asian pallet, and I was converted long ago, it sounds and is delectable.
Hanshin Snack Park is the most famous place in the world to get this snack and while, as you can see or not, the squid is not discernable with the naked eye but rather infused in the pancake. The deluxe version has more egg but do not expect big chunks of squid but, along with a version with green onions, those options are also very inexpensive at 253 and 198 yen, respectively. They are best with a beer and not intended as a meal but as a snack like the name of the establishment.
Okonomiyaki Omoni Hon Ten
Address: 3-3-2 Momodani, Ikuno-ku, Osaka City, Osaka Prefecture
Are you getting hungry? Here is a place for the big eaters. My favorite Okonomiyaki Shop for it’s great quality ingredients and maximillist menu. Omoni is nearby Koreatown in Ikuno and Tsuruhashi, an often overlooked area of the city for great food and Osaka’s Korean neighborhoods that add so much richness integral to the city.
Omoni is relatively small, no counter seats but three or four booths accomodating four patrons in front and three or four Zashiki seats, low tables with a sunken floor for your legs, for three or four patrons each in the back. I always have arrived on a weekday afternoon solo and have gotten seated right away but weekends and evenings will be busier, they accept reservations for three or four diners.
There are over 25 iterations of Okonomiyaki here and the ones I have had are delicious. My order had pork, kimchi, konnyaku, beef intestine, green onions, udon noodles and egg. Wow! The creations all work together and taste great making this a really fun place to go if you are tired of austere, refined, restrained Japanese dishes and are looking for something wild and decadent.
Negiyaki Yamamoto
Address: 1 Chome-8-4 Jusohonmachi, Yodogawa Ward, Osaka, 532-0024
Lean, mean and green and very tasty next comes an instituion in Osaka, the very famous and deservedly so, Negiyaki Yamamoto. Negiyaki is like Okonomiyaki but with a lighter broh in the batter, the dashi taste is not as pronounced, and the cabbage is replaced with green onions. Negiyaki is thinner, crispier and not as filling but really flavorful. This restaurant has branches in Umeda and Shin-Osaka as well but I always feel the original shop, or Honten, is worth visiting if possible.
Above is the standard Negiyaki with pork and you can’t go wrong with this choice. As you can see it holds its shape very well and is more pancake like than Okonomiyaki. If you want something tasty and simple this is a good choice.
Inside you will be elbow to elbow with hungry Osaka residents and tourists ready to eat at one of the most well known spots for Negiyaki in the city and thus the world. You are sure to meet some funny individuals curious to how you heard about this place from wherever it is you come from. The open kitchen, horseshoe counter set up, my favorite, is great for watching the action, chatting and meeting people as well as odering directly to the cooks.
This dish really is great all year round. The area near Juso station is also filled with color, eateries, nightlife and a local feel. It is often overlooked on tourists iteneraries but is recommended. It is a hub for the Hankyu line to change trains for Kyoto as well so it is a station you may be passing through.
Takoyaki Umaiya
Address: 4-21 Naniwacho, Kita Ward, Osaka 530-0022
Simple and delicious the Takoyaki at Umaiya, which means delicious shop, are different than conventional ones you find all over Japan. No bonito flakes, nori seaweed flakes, green onions or mayonaise are offered here. The Octopus balls, cooked with cripsy tenkasu, or tempura flakes, and pickled ginger inside are simply topped with a thin layer of sauce.
The twelve Takoyaki, 810 yen, I ordered had a rich octopus flavor and crispy texture. Pickled ginger compliments the seafood flavor of the dashi batter. I was initially disappointed that katsuo bushi, green onions and mayo are not involved but now I am a convert to this simple variation. The quality of the ingredients is evident and it is becoming my favorite place in the city to pick them up on the go. Lovingly wrapped in a box and beautiful wrapping paper you can order and be on your way very quickly. There is also a space indoors for about seven or eight customers to dine if you wish as well.
If you are interested, as I am, in the hardware of these operations the griddle and slot where the fritters are collected before serving is particularly handsome. It is a lot of fun to watch the Takoyaki being made and prepared.
Tapioka Shokudo
Address: 9-14 Kokubucho, Tennoji Ward, Osaka, 534-0044
Moving south of the city near Tennoji and Abeno Stations is a new restaurant that has become well known on social media recently with its Green Onion heavy okonomiyaki.
After ordering the signature Green Onion Okonomiyaki it came served to me like above with mayo on one side and katsu bushi and sauce on the other and the whole offering bursting with green onions. Beef Tendon, or Suji, is inside and goes well with the green onions. Suji is a popular ingredient in Kansai and is key in dishes like Doteyaki, Oden, Gyusuji Nikomi and Nikujaga, and should be tried when you are here. I also liberally spiced the whole thing with shichimi seven pepper spice which you will always find on tables at restaurants.
Huge Portions
This is a big Okonomiyaki and though I soldiered on as best I could I was only able to eat half. Luckily this must be a common occurrence as the staff gladly offered me a to go box to bring the rest home for lunch the next day. While you may have heard, and this is true, that many restaurants in Japan don’t permit food to be taken home it is becoming more common these days. If you choose to take your food home and that is allowed keep in mind that you will be charged for the box, though this is generally only one hundred yen or so.
This place does not have counter seats and is pretty popular so you may need to make a reservation on weekends, holidays or in the evenings. If you arrrive early enough on a weekday you should be able to get a table without too much trouble.
Please visit these places when you are in Osaka. They are all dear to me and at least one should interest you. Each place will have friendly staff and customers, are reasonably priced and have great food! The most important factor! There is a lot of information out there on Konomon and how it relates to the geography, culture and history of the city is fascinating. I hope these places can get your patronage and stay in business for a long time so I can keep eating there!
