Tanimachi 6-Chome: Discovering Osaka’s Hidden Neighborhoods

Introducing Andojimachi, Uchikyuhojimachi and Ryuzojicho, three overlooked neighborhoods home to an eclectic mix of bars, cafes, restaurants, and artisan workshops only one stop from Osaka Castle and short stroll to Karahori Shotengai.

Introduction

If you’ve already explored Karahori Shōtengai, you’ve seen one side of this part of Osaka. Wander a few blocks south and east into Andojimachi, Ryūzōji-chō, and Uchikyuhojimachi, and you’ll find a neighborhood with a very different feel. Largely spared from the Allied bombing raids of 1945, these backstreets still retain old machiya townhouses, narrow lanes, and early Shōwa-era buildings that have disappeared from much of central Osaka. Despite its rich history and growing collection of independent cafés, bars, workshops, and galleries, this corner of Tanimachi remains one of the city’s least explored neighborhoods by international visitors. In a few years, however, it could be a popular tourist destination like Nakazakicho, so this is real chance to explore the area before it becomes trendy.

Andojimachi

Andojimachi has the oldest-and most debated-of the three neighborhood names. The leading theory traces it to Azumi-dera (阿曇寺／安曇寺), a temple mentioned in the Nihon Shoki and linked to the seafaring Azumi clan, who once controlled this part of the plateau. How Azumiji evolved into Andoji remains a mystery. The neighborhood is also the birthplace of novelist Naoki Sanjūgo (1891-1934), for whom the prestigious Naoki Prize is named, and a monument marks his birthplace. Stretching east-west and bisected by Tanimachi-suji, the district lies just north of Nagahori-dori. The “Uchi” in the neighboring street name Uchi-Andojimachi indicates that it was once located within the outer fortifications of Osaka Castle.

Deepening Submarine Bar SHINKA 潜水艦Bar 深化

[Map] 1-1-7 Andojimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 6. Tel: 06-6765-1120. Open: Mon-Sun 19:00-2:00. Closed: Irregular. Price: ¥2,000-¥3,000.

I had been aware of the submarine bar since it opened two decades ago, but didn’t actually visit it until earlier this year. The bar is located in a narrow, residential back alley in Andojimachi. Finding this hidden bar can be somewhat of a challenge, even with GPS. There are no signs or any indication whatsoever that a bar that has developed a cult-following among steampunk fans is located on this dimly-lit street.

Under The Sea

Once you step inside, you’re transported to another world in which piping, valves, gauges, bulkheads, exposed bolts and steel plating, and an the eerie hum of machinery, including low sub-bass hums, hydraulic sounds, and sonar-like pings make it seem like you are actually in a submarine traveling through the depths of the ocean. The owner’s name is Kaz, and he said he started a bar partially due to being inspired by visits with his father to the Penguin Bar, a chain of bars operated by Suntory that were very popular in the 80s and 90s. He said he didn’t really have an interest in submarines, but he thought that the concept would bring together Japanese and international visitors, since he doesn’t speak much English.

Shinka was designed and constructed in collaboration with set artists from Ishin-ha (維新派), Osaka’s world renowned avant-garde theater group known for constructing massive, temporary outdoor stages using raw scaffolding, timber and industrial junk. Almost everything inside the bar was built by hand or assembled from reclaimed industrial machinery or scrap metal.

Sci-Fi Movie Vibes

The steel door bathroom door mechanism is something straight out of a Ridley Scott science fiction movie. It uses a counterweight and latch system that requires guests to figure out how to lock/unlock it, which really adds to the feeling of being inside the bulkhead of a submarine.

I ordered a can of Nishinari Riot Ale and Brewdog Punk IPA, which were both reasonably priced. My friends told me that in the past Kaz-san asked customers to speak in a low voice in order to enjoy the quiet hum of the machinery, but it seems like in recent times this rule is often ignored. A young Japanese couple sitting next to me were talking in a loud voice, which seemed as though they were deliberately flaunting the rules. I later asked Kaz-san about it, and he replied that it is what it is. If you do go there, please try to enjoy the silence.

A769 the BAR アナログ ザ バー

[Map]1-5-1 Andojimachi (Little Bird 2F), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 6. Tel: 06-6765-2376. Open: Mon-Sat 18:00-2:00. Closed: Sun. Price: ¥2,000-¥2,999.Facebook: A769 the BAR ～ アナログ ザ バー ～Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/leemasa/

A769 is a play on words. The number 769 reads as “na-ro-ku” in Japanese, which combined with the letter A spells out アナログ (Anarogu), meaning analog. The bar is located on the second floor of a two-storey building covered in corrugated galvanized steel sheeting. The ground floor houses a small hair salon called Little Birds. Since the bar opens after the salon closes, the shutter to the entrance is kept half-closed. I didn’t realize that you have to lift it up to enter the first time I visited, and left because I thought it was closed.

Calling Mr Lee: A DJ with Impeccable Taste

A769 is owned by Masahiro Lee, a DJ with an extremely laid-back and gentle persona who has built up a following all over Osaka due to his impeccable music taste. You don’t go to A769 to make requests, you go to listen to Lee’s cultivated playlists, mostly sourced from his collection of over 2,000 vinyl records. The interior resembles a 1970s listening room and features vintage Eames and Karimoku furniture and a glittering jukebox.

The bar set up: a chill place to hang out

One of my favorite things about A769 is how the counter runs perpendicular to the bar and DJ booth so customers on either side have to face each other. This makes it easy for conversations to occur naturally among bar patrons. For customers who want a bit more privacy there is a small table by the jukebox that sits four, although I can’t distinguish the Eams from the Karimoku furniture (I’ll learn).

Weeknights vs Weekends

Just based on my own experiences, A769 is a bit different on a weekdays and weekends. When I went there during the week, it was mostly older music fans sitting around the bar. The movie Street Kingdom had just come out so we talked about bands featured in the movies such as The Stalin, Friction and Lizard. When I visited on a Saturday night with my wife, there was a total “date night” vibe and the bar was full of young couples drinking cocktails.

I was surprised to learn that A769 had just moved to this location in December from Tanimachi 9-Chome. Lee told me it was the fourth or fifth time he had moved since starting out years ago in Fuse in Higashiosaka. It seems like every time he moves his long time regulars follow him and he acquires new customers through word of mouth or recommendations from other bar owners. (I found out about A769 from a regular customer at Douraku in Namba.)

A769 is one of those bars that I feel should be a well-kept secret, yet I have a strong desire to bring all my friends who are music fans here.

Champagne and Natural Wines hapo シャンパーニュと自然派ワイン hapo

[Map] 1-5-2 Andojimachi (Kyoei Building 1F), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 6. Tel: 080-5364-2916. Open: Mon-Sun 17:00-1:00. Closed: Irregular. Price: ¥2,000-¥2,999. Instagram: @___hapo___

Hapo is run by Yukinobu Kunimoto who moved to Osaka originally to pursue music, but developed a strong passion for wine, especially natural and biodynamic wines. He also owns Sapo down the street (see below) a wine shop that sells bottles of natural wine from Japan and Europe.

As I have mentioned in previous articles, I am not much of a wine drinker, but I did enjoy trying natural wine at Parloir in Nakazakicho. At Parloir, Jeremy Blaustein did all the ordering; this time I was entering uncharted territory with my wife. Would I make a fool out of myself by not comprehending the wine list? Or do something worse like knocking over a wine glass like a hapless Mr Bean? My anxiety upon entering Hapo, which is located a few steps away from A769, was put to rest by the calm and friendly manner of Kunimoto-san.

Weisser Traubenmost (Austria) and Emodela (Shiga)

When I explained that I was a wine novice, he agreed to create a tasting menu of several wines that I could sample.His first suggestion was Weisser Traubenmost (White Grape Must), 2025, by Weinbau Strom, a family-owned organic winery in Kamptal, Austria. I loved it, and was shocked to find out that it is completely non-alcoholic, essentially grape juice. I suppose he started me off with a safe choice as an introduction to the world of biodynamic wines.

Next up was a sampling of EMODELA, a natural orange wine from Hitomi Winery in Shiga Prefecture made with Delaware grapes. Hitomi Winery is famous for producing nigori (unfiltered, cloudy) wines. They do not fine or filter their wines, preserving all the raw grape solids and sediment for maximum depth and character.

Jakkernewbie (France) and Prime (Italy)

Romain des Grottes, based in Saint-Étienne-des-Oullières, Beaujolais, France. is famous for playful wordplay cuvée names.”Jakkernewbie” is a nod to the Jacquère grape variety combined with the slang term “newbie.” (How appropriate). This white wine has a nice crisp green apple, citrus taste. I’m not going to pretend I’m a wine reviewer, so I’ll just leave it at that.

The last selection Kunimoto offered was Prime, a Primitivo by Guttarolo, a noted natural wine producer based in Apulia, Italy. “Guttarolo’s vineyards are located on a limestone plateau about 400 meters above sea level, giving their wines remarkable freshness, mineral lift, and acidity rather than high heat and extraction.” A great way to end the night

I liked that Hapo was a tachinomi (standing bar), where customers could easily strike up conversations with one another. I think of the service at places like this as “ultra-polite casual.” The owners are often part of the local music scene, dress casually, and chat with customers in a friendly, respectful way. There’s no sense that they’re trying to impress anyone or put on airs. That relaxed professionalism puts customers at ease, allowing them to be themselves while still enjoying an atmosphere that feels stylish and welcoming.

hakoYa 箱家

[Map] 1-4-21 Andojimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 6. Tel: 06-6777-7821. Open: Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00. Closed: Mon. Price: Varies by item. Website: https://tsunekichi.jp/ Instagram:tsunekichibox

Hakoya Tsunekichi (箱屋常吉) has been crafting cedar bento boxes and ohistu (wooden rice tubs) from solid unfinished cedar since 1868. Their retail shop, hakoYa, is located directly across the street from Champagne and Natural Wines hapo. Fifth generation owner Masao Sasai explains the company leaves their bento boxes are deliberately unlacquered, which allows the wood to naturally absorb excess moisture from freshly cooked rice and release it as the meal cools.

Workshops at hakoYa

The second floor doubles as a gallery space and workshop, where visitors (including tourists from overseas) can make a “breathing” bento box and chopsticks set. Masao Sasai and his wife Eri will lead the two-hour workshop (in English or Japanese) while explaining the history of the company. If you are interesting in signing up for the English workshop you can apply here: https://wabunka-lux.jp/experiences/en_hakoya-tsunekichi/

Even if you don’t sign up for the workshop, stepping into the shop feels like walking into an exhibit at a museum. I really enjoyed perusing all of the handmade items on display. I even spotted a century-old portable gramophone tucked into a cabinet under the stairs.

Soba AYAMEDO 蕎麦 文目堂

[Map] 2-2-26 Andojimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 5. Tel: 06-7504-5260. Open: Mon-Sat 11:30-14:30, 17:30-20:30. Closed: Sun. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,999. Website: https://kd91700.gorp.jp/

Soba Ayamedo is housed in a renovated three-story building that dates back to 1936. The owner (whose name is unlisted) is a former corporate employee who transitioned to culinary arts after discovering a passion for authentic soba culture. He spent five years training, most notably at the renowned Sobagiri Tensho in Hirakata, before opening his own restaurant in 2009.

The restaurant serves two kinds of soba: a pale delicately fragrant 100% buckwheat “hosogiri,” and as darker “arabiki” made by grinding in the buckwheat husk with a small amount of wheat flour (komugiko). I decided to order their signature menu item: Kamo Jiru Soba (鴨汁そば), duck dashi soba. Rather than a standard hot soup noodle, it is served tsukemen/seiro style, combining cold, hand-cut buckwheat noodles with a hot, savory duck dipping broth.

I can say without exaggeration that this may have been the best soba dish I’ve ever eaten in Japan. Before arriving, I knew it was a well-regarded local restaurant, but I had no idea it had been featured in the Michelin Guide for well over a decade. By the time I finished the noodles, I was so happy I could have wept.

As I got up to pay the bill, the staff smiled and told me my meal wasn’t over yet. To my embarrassment, I hadn’t realized that after finishing your soba, you’re served soba-yu (hot buckwheat cooking water). Here it was unusually thick, almost like a potage. Poured into the remaining duck broth, it transformed the leftover dashi into a rich, silky soup-the perfect way to end an unforgettable meal.

Bar & Room Spin

[Map] 2-2-14 Andojimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 5. Tel: [to confirm]. Open: Tue-Sat 17:00-23:30. Closed: Mon, Sun. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,000. Website: https://bar-room-spin.com/ Instagram:bar_room_spin

A Place that Values Conversation

I walked past this tiny bar (108 square feet) which only sits five people and knew that it had to be special. When I looked it up online, I was really impressed by owner Tsumue Kobayashi’s mission statement on her website:

“Over the years, I’ve experienced so much joy through the connections made in bars, the sheer fun of open communication and the pleasure of sharing ideas with people of all ages and walks of life. Though we call ourselves a ‘bar’ I created spin to be more than just a place to eat and drink. I wanted to build a space that makes each guest’s daily life just a little bit brighter.”

I dropped in about a week later and found one other customer already there, deep in an animated conversation with the owner. When I ordered a Minoh beer, Kobayashi-san seemed relieved to discover that I could speak Japanese. This is one of those places where knowing the language is essential, as conversation is such a central part of its raison d’être. With more and more visitors to Japan learning Japanese, a place like this could be especially appealing to anyone looking for a relaxed way to practice and improve their skills.

Free Snacks

I spotted a basket of snacks on the counter with note that read: Dagashi (traditional Japanese penny snacks) are available for customers to enjoy, with a limit of four pieces per person. Please take only one snack at a time and only choose what you can finish. Thank you for your cooperation. What a great concept! Who could refuse free snacks?

Business Cards and Fliers: Better than SNS

Another thing I loved about Spin was Kobayashi-san’s idea of displaying business cards from recommended shops on clothespins by the entrance. It feels special that you have to step into a tiny bar like this to discover interesting places, events, and connections that you might otherwise miss. When I mentioned Tacos del Chino, I was told that the owner was actually the customer who had been sitting at the counter when I first walked in. Unfortunately, he had just left.

Ryuzojicho

Sandwiched between the other two neighborhoods, Ryūzōjichō serves as their connective link. Its name is generally believed to come from the Ryūzōji clan, whose residence stood here during the Toyotomi period, though some attribute it instead to the tea master Ryūzōji Rokurōjirō. Its history reaches back much further: when the port of Naniwa flourished in the 5th century, this part of the Uemachi Plateau was a center for ironworking, glass bead production, and Sue pottery. More recently, its streets were used as a filming location for Meoto Zenzai, based on Oda Sakunosuke’s classic novel of Osaka life.

Wine Shop SAPO ワインショップ サポ

[Map] 8-19 Ryuzojicho, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 6. Tel: 070-8490-0619. Open: Mon-Sun 13:00-20:30. Closed: Irregular. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,999. Instagram: @wineshop_sapo

Sapo is a kakuuchi wine shop that has a bar on the premises so you can imbibe before selecting a bottle to take home. Or you can simply stop in for a quick drink inside the stylish Nordic interior. The shop is owned by Yukinobu Kunimoto of Hapo up the street and managed by his wife. The shop, which means “frog” in Portuguese opened in 2023. You can order light snacks to go with your wine.

Coucou “Orange” (France)

I order a glass of Coucou Orange, a natural wine made with Gewürztraminer grapes which is made by skin-macerating, a fundamental winemaking process where freshly crushed grape juice is left to soak alongside the grape skins, seeds, and sometimes stems. The process gives the wine its amber/orange hue and light subtle textural backbone.

Vinyl at Sapo

While enjoyiWhile sipping my wine, I really started to get into the music, a fusion of jazz, Latin funk and psychelic rock. I asked the worker behind the counter to show me the album. He was a young man in his 20s wearing a “Totally F**ked Up t-shirt. I figured he had to be in a band. The album was an original 1973 promo pressing of En Medio, by East L.A. prodigy Garrett Saracho. The album is considered a “lost” masterpiece. Saracho was disillusioned with the music business and never recorded again. The album was finally reissued 50 years later in 2023.

Craft Beer Inside a Wine Shop

I was delighted to see that Sapo has a cooler full of imported craft beers, many which are hard to find in Osaka. I selected an English-style porter from Garage Beer Co. in Spain. It had just started to rain lightly and I had a perfect view of the old street in the heart of Ryūzōjichō from my table.

Paul Giamatti in Sideways can screw himself, I’m buying a bottle of Merlot.

I was having such a good time that I decided to support the shop by buying a bottle of wine to take home. Immediately, the movie Sideways came to mind, and I struggled to recall the type of wine that Paul Giamatti’s character loved. Ah, Pinot Noir! I was about to ask for a bottle when I remembered an interesting bit of trivia: “Following the 2004 release of the film Sideways, U.S. Merlot sales dropped by about 2% through 2008, while its cultural reputation slumped significantly due to a famous anti-Merlot line.” That seemed a bit unfair, so I decided to go with Merlot Man 2022 by Hitomi Winery (ヒトミワイナリー), a natural winery located in Higashiomi, Shiga Prefecture. I gotta say this wine made me a lifelong fan of Merlot. I’ll be watching Sideways (and the Japanese remake) with a much different perspective from now on.

depe coffee shop

[Map] 7-5 Ryuzojicho, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 6. Tel: [to confirm]. Open: Mon 15:00-22:00, Thu 13:00-19:00, Fri 12:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00. Closed: Tue, Wed. Price: ¥1,000-¥1,999. Instagram: @depe_coffee_shop

I enjoy visiting bars and restaurants where you can feel the owner’s passion in every detail of what they create. Depe, whose name comes from the phrase “depends on you,” was opened by Tomoya Hibi in Sembayashi-Omiya in 2024. After graduating from culinary school, Hibi was working at an Italian restaurant when he stopped by a nearby coffee stand during a break. A single cup of coffee brewed by the barista, Shinta Yasuda (the owner of The Sowers in Kobe) left a lasting impression on him and inspired his transition into the world of specialty coffee. Hibi relocated to Tanimachi 6-Chome in 2025 after building a following doing pop-ups and coffee events nationwide.

At Depe coffee shop, there are typically 7 to 8 types of coffee beans featured on the menu at any one time, ranging in price from ¥900 to ¥8,000 yen. You might think, who besides Jensen Huang would pay ¥8,000 yen for a single cup of coffee? Prices at depe vary considerably because the shop sources rare, small-batch beans, including Geisha varietals grown in limited quantities in places such as Panama. These coffees can command prices far above standard commercial beans at auction, reflecting their scarcity, quality, and the meticulous work involved in producing them. Coffee connoisseurs from around the world have heaped high praise on the quality of the beans at depe, and that counts more than anything I have to say on the subject. I’m just going to jump right in a try a couple of the “lower priced” items.

Columbia Luz Helena “Lychee Infused”

This coffee is a Colombian micro-lot co-fermented with real lychee during processing, yielding an intensely fruity, tea-like brew with vivid notes of lychee and peach. It is served in a wine glass to concentrate its delicate floral aromas and allow easy swirling, letting you experience how its complex flavors evolve as the coffee cools. Once again, I was a bit terrified of knocking over the wine glass and smashing it to bits.

Café latte

Ordered as a café latte, this drink is made with an espresso shot pulled from Colombia Luz Helena “Lychee Infused” beans, pairing an experimental single-origin micro-lot directly with steamed milk. Traditional third-wave coffee etiquette usually reserves beans this high-end and aromatic strictly for black filter coffee, so this pairing is a bold move. The result is a unique “fruit and cream” profile that turns the latte into something closer to a lychee milk tea, with a delicate peach flavor underneath.

Tanimachi Glass Hono Kobo 谷町ガラスＨｏｎｏ工房

[Map] 1-2-12 Ryuzojicho, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 6 / Tanimachi 4-chome (Tanimachi Line, Chuo Line), Exit 10. Tel: 06-6763-5665. Open: Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00. Closed: Mon. Price: Varies by product / Experience from ¥3,000. Website: https://tanimachi-glass.com/

Founded in 2004 in Ryuzocho, a shitamachi neighborhood historically full of family-run factories, metalworking shops, and print shops, Tanimachi Glass Hono Kobo is a hands-on glassblowing studio. I walked past it on a beautiful spring day and asked if I could take a photo of the workers blowing glass inside. The owners politely refused, and I left a bit disappointed. It was only after some research that I realized none of the people inside were actually workers. They’d all signed up for a glassblowing workshop. The studio offers both blown glass and kiln-fused glass experience, making it accessible even to beginners who are uncomfortable working with a furnace.

Glassblowing Workshops for Beginners

For readers interested in trying it themselves, Tanimachi Glass Hono Kobo offers a trial workshop aimed at beginners. Morning and afternoon sessions run 3 hours and cost ¥7,260 (tax included), while evening sessions run 2.5 hours for ¥6,600. You can make as many pieces as you like within your working time, all covered by the fee, though everything needs a full day to cool before it’s ready. That means you’ll pick up your pieces the next day or have them shipped, with shipping paid cash on delivery.

Booking is done directly by phone (06-6763-5665) or email (contact@tanimachi-glass.com), there’s no online reservation system, which suits the small, hands-on nature of the studio. Come dressed practically: long-sleeve cotton shirts and pants, sneakers, and bring sunglasses and a towel, since things get hot inside. Please note that instruction is in Japanese, so you might need to go with someone who can translate for you if you don’t speak the language.

Uchikyuhojimachi

Uchikyuhojimachi has the most tongue-twisting name of the three neighborhoods and perhaps the most debated origin. One theory traces it to a temple called Kyūhōji, whose location had already been forgotten by the Edo period, while another suggests it was named by laborers from Kyūhōji village in Kawachi Province who settled here after helping excavate the Dōtonbori Canal in 1612. The Uchi (内) prefix indicates that the district lay within the outer fortifications of Osaka Castle. In later centuries, the area became known for its wholesalers of hina dolls, Boys’ Day figures, toys, and confectionery along Matchamachi-suji, also known as Gottchamachi-suji.

Senetsu 僭越

[Map] 2-7-12 Uchikyuhojimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line), Exit 6 / Tanimachi 4-chome (Tanimachi Line, Chuo Line), Exit 10. Open: Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun 17:00-23:00. Closed: Thu. Price: ¥2,000-¥3,999. Instagram: @sen_etsu2026

Senetsu translates to “presumptuous” or “audacious” in Japanese. Before opening the izakaya, the friendly owner spent five years running a pop-up curry shop in Suita called Zawa Curry. Just a few months ago, he transformed a former nagaya (row house) that once housed the well-loved sake shop Kamunabi into Senetsu, a Japanese-Western fusion izakaya serving a multinational menu of small plates that changes every two weeks.

Guests remove their shoes before stepping inside, where a spacious 10-seat counter and warm wood interior create a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. The drink menu features more than 50 options, including beer, chuhai, shochu, highballs, and natural wine. Since the shop is run by a single person, service moves at a relaxed pace, making it the perfect place to settle in and enjoy the evening.

Wagyu Beef Round Roast Beef with Tonnato Sauce

Since this was one of the last stops of the evening on our night out, my wife and I were in the mood for a light meal. We started off with the Wagyu Beef Round Roast Beef with Tonnato Sauce, a creamy Italian condiment from Piedmont made by blending canned tuna, anchovies, capers, lemon juice, and olive oil into a mayonnaise or egg-based emulsion. The roast beef was tender and juicy and paired well with the tangy sauce.

Marinated Mizunatsu Eggplant, Blueberries, and Sudachi

My wife is a big fan of both eggplant and blueberries, so she could not resist this appetizer that also includes sudachi. When the owner brought it to us, I just had to comment on his awesome Taiwan Beer apron. This is when I noticed a copy of one of my favorite magazines, Meets Regional, along with a business card from one of the writers or editors. The owner told me that Meets is doing a special issue on Tanimachi area that will be published on the last day of July. In fact, the writer had just been in less than an hour ago. I figured I better work fast to avoid getting scooped, but I guess great minds think alike. Sorry for the humblebrag.

Bitter Caramel Pudding and an Embarrassing “Larry David” Faux Pas

For dessert, we went with the bitter caramel pudding, which tasted as good as it looks in the photo. Instead of describing it in detail, I’m going to share an embarrassing anecdote. Oh, man this one is a real doozy. While we we there, a couple of young sitting at the other end o the counter had been enjoying their drinks and by the time they left they were three sheets to the wind. I get up to put on my shoes, and find that one of them is missing. So I politely explain to the owner that one of the young guys must have accidentally put on my shoe by mistake in his hammered state. The owner said that the two guys were friends of his so he called them. I was proud of myself for being so reasonable and understanding, but both them said they had on their own shoes. Upon inspecting the shoes carefully, I realized that they were my shoes, and I had been wearing mismatched shoes for the entire day! I was the one who was hammered, not the poor innocent youths falsely accused of the heinous crime of shoe-switching! I apologized profusely, but the owner was chill and laughed it off.

maiyancoco マイヤンココ

[Map] 2-7-12 Uchikyuhojimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line), Exit 6 / Tanimachi 4-chome (Tanimachi Line, Chuo Line), Exit 10. Tel: 06-7222-2555. Open: Wed-Fri 12:00-19:00, Sat-Sun & Holidays 12:00-18:00. Closed: Mon, Tue (Irregular, check Instagram). Price: ¥1,000-¥1,999. Instagram: @maiyan_coco

Maiyancoco is a patisserie housed in a renovated nagaya (traditional row house) beside the well-known sushi restaurant Sanshin. Both are located across the street from Dōza Park (銅座公園), a small neighborhood park tucked into an alley roughly halfway between Tanimachi 4-chome and Tanimachi 6-chome. The park takes its name from the Dōza, the government office responsible for minting and trading copper in the Edo period. Established in 1701, the Dōza operated here until it was abolished in 1750.

Maiyancoco, which opened in 2020, is a combination of the owner’s nickname and the name of her cat. I ordered the Gâteau Fraise, a minimalist take on a strawberry shortcake shaped like a cylindrical candle. My wife ordered the Pistachio Tart, which features a rich pistachio mousse/mould ring sitting on a baked tart base topped with cream and a dark cherry. We then split the New York cheesecake, although I wish I ordered my own portion. All three desserts were outstanding and expertly made. The cakes are produced in small batches and often sell out quickly.

COBALT BLUE コバルトブルー

[Map] 2-7-15 Uchikyuhojimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 4-chome (Tanimachi Line, Chuo Line), Exit 7 / Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line), Exit 6. Tel: 06-6764-7150. Open: Mon-Sun 11:00-18:00. Closed: Irregular. Instagram:cobaltblue0616 Website: www.cobaltblue.jp

Cobalt Blue is a lamp and glassware gallery showcasing lighting made by independent Japanese glass artists. The showroom demonstrates how handmade lighting changes appearance depending on illumination, and most of the lamps are one-of-a-kind pieces rather than mass-produced designs. Many are further decorated using Kiriko techniques, which involve cutting precise geometric patterns into colored glass after it has cooled.

Tanimachi 6-Chome Station Area: Other Nearby Restaurants

El Sabroso

[Map] 2-1-14 Minamikyahozaimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Sakaisuji-Hommachi (Sakaisuji Line, Chuo Line), Exit 3 / Nagahoribashi (Sakaisuji Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 2. Tel: 06-6262-0266. Open: Tue-Fri 11:30-14:00, 18:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 12:00-15:00, 18:00-22:30. Closed: Mon. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,999. Instagram:elsabroso_72

El Sabroso is run by a chef who trained at the well-known Taqueria La Fonda. It’s a one-man operation, the owner runs the counter solo, he’s known for his enthusiasm for Mexico itself, not just the food. I spotted a Japanese translation of a book by Danny Trejo.

We started off with a chicken burrito. Highly recommended.

Then we got the carnitas and shrimp tacos made with authentic corn tortilla. So good, I ordered two more servings.

El Sabroso is famous for their spicy jalapeno yakisoba, the perfect fusion of Mexican and Japanese cuisine.

Cafe Bochika カフェ ボーチカ Russian and Ukarainian Cuisine

[Map] 2-1-14 Minamikyahozaimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Sakaisuji-Hommachi (Sakaisuji Line, Chuo Line), Exit 3 / Nagahoribashi (Sakaisuji Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 2. Tel: 06-6262-0266. Open: Tue-Fri 11:30-14:00, 18:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 12:00-15:00, 18:00-22:30. Closed: Mon. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,999. Instagram:cafe.bochika

Cafe Bochika was originally a food-truck style Russian eatery in Shinfukushima over 20 years ago that was run by a Russian woman named Natasha and the current owner, Masakazu Iwasaki, a former trading-company employee who speaks multiple languages including Russian. Iwasaki has carried on Natasha’s original recipes and still cooks them carefully himself.

Cafe Bochka Lunch

I am from Brighton Beach Brooklyn, a neighborhood in Brooklyn that has a huge Russia and Ukrainian population, so I grew up eating Russian food at restaurants for my entire life. It’s hard to find good Russian food in Osaka, so we were delighted to find Cafe Bochika. We ordered the Cafe Bochika set for ¥2,200 which consists of Mini Borscht, Mini Salad, Rye Bread & White Bread, Russian Tea and the Chef’s special, in this case Chicken Cheburashka, tender roasted chicken roll marinated with spices, tomato and citrus. It’s topped with a dollop of smetana (sour cream) and fresh dill.

Daitoku 中国料理 大徳

[Map] 6-1-14 Tanimachi (Tanimachi Daiji Building B1F), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 1. Tel: 06-6768-5338. Open: Mon-Fri 11:30-13:45, 17:00-22:30; Sat 11:30-13:45, 17:00-21:00. Closed: Sun. Price: ¥1,000-¥1,999.

Daitoku is a well-loved machi-chuka restaurant located in the basement of the Tanimachi Daiji Building. Daitoku is directly connected to Tanimachi 6-Chome Station. You’ll pass it on the stairs by Exit 1. I remember walking by it many times as an exchange student in the late 80s and being intrigued by a Chinese restaurant inside a subway station. I finally got to visit Daikoku earlier this year and enjoyed one of their specialties: sweet and sour chicken. It’s the type of old neighborhood restaurant where regulars gather to watch baseball on TV.

Henry’s Pizza

[Map] 4-2-2 Tanimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Tanimachi 4-chome (Tanimachi Line, Chuo Line), Exit 8 / Tanimachi 6-chome (Tanimachi Line, Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 6. Tel: 06-6766-4312. Open: Mon-Sun 11:30-21:30. Closed: Irregular. Price: ¥1,000-¥1,999. Cash not accepted. Instagram: henrys_pizza_osaka

Since you’re already in the neighborhood, you might want to walk a few blocks down to Henry’s Pizza, a popular restaurant owned by famous graphic designer Verdy, an Osaka native. Expect to see a lot of fashionable young people wearing KITH t-shirts. Henry’s Pizza is known for collaborations with bands such as Circle Jerks and Green Day. Apparently, Billie Joe Armstrong of Green Day said it’s his favorite NY-style Pizza in Japan. Stay in your lane, West Coaster. I’ve tried it twice, the plain slice (average) and the Italian sausage (very good). Personally, this native New Yorker prefers Hughes Pizza (Osaka) and Pop Pizza in Kyoto, but I am not the right demographic for this shop, so who cares what I think?