This is the second installment in our series on Osaka’s music bars. The first article focused on record bars that feature vinyl. The bars here include multiple formats: vinyl, CDs, MP3s, DVDs, and even cassette tapes, spanning everything from progressive rock, folk, and punk to soul, blues, and hip-hop. Two of the venues are record shops with a bar on the premises. What they all have in common is friendly owners who enjoy sharing their love of music with anyone who walks through the door. If you missed Part 1, you can find it here.
Table of Contents
Namida no Italian Twist 涙のイタリアンツイスト
[Map]1-13-9 Higashishinsaibashi (Teni Building 5th, 2F), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Nagahoribashi (Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line), Exit 7. Tel: 06-6241-5957. Open: Mon-Sun 17:00-2:00. Closed: None listed. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,000. Instagram: @junichi_bocky_yano
Namida no Italian Twist (Tears of Italian Twist) is an anomaly among cocktail bars in Osaka because it opens at 5 PM, making it the perfect spot to start off a night of bar-hopping and music. The bar is located in the heart of Shinsaibashi. Walk up the stairs to the second floor and you’re transported to the type of cozy bar that would not have been out of place in 1960s New York City.
The shelves are packed with colorful liquor bottles and vintage vinyl records, a nice selection of American blues and jazz and Japanese pop music. The long bar is crafted from dark, rustic wood with low, backless rectangular orange and green stools. The walls are fully clad in vertical wood paneling with a distinctive horizontal window looking out to the neighborhood that is reminiscent of a ship’s porthole.
Drinking with The Godfather of Soul
The bar is stocked with roughly 120 different varieties of alcohol and is known for custom cocktails and strong highballs. Even if you come alone, you’ll be in good company: a bobblehead figure of the Godfather of Soul, James Brown, holds court on the left side of the bar.
I spot an album called Sarah Vaughan Sings sitting on a shelf alongside several cassette tapes, including one by Taeko Ohnuki, a city pop artist whose second album, Sunshower, featured contributions from Ryuichi Sakamoto. Several record bar owners have told me that visitors from overseas often request songs by city pop artists these days.
The Wurlitzer Jukebox from 1959
The jewel in the crown is a 1959 Wurlitzer 2300 “Hi-Fi Stereo” jukebox from the tail end of America’s golden jukebox era. The 2300 was one of Wurlitzer’s early stereo models and could hold 100 records (200 playable sides). The jukebox’s selections reflect the owner’s taste for Motown, Southern Soul, Stax Records, doo-wop, early rock and roll, classic R&B, and Japanese soul and kayōkyoku favorites including Buddy Holly, Bobby Hebb, Ruth Brown & Her Midnighters, The Velvets, Mari Natsuki, The Brooms, and Pedro & Capricious.
Meeting the Owner Junichi “Bocky” Yano
The owner’s name is Junichi “Bocky” Yano. He is impeccably dressed in a red turtleneck and camel-colored blazer with a crest on the left that features the text “Yokohama” on top and “Crazy Ken Band” on the bottom. This is especially significant because “Namida no Italian Twist” is a song by Crazy Ken Band. Yano is such a fan of the band that he named the bar after one of their songs.
Yano-san tells me that around half of his customers are overseas tourists. When I got there, a couple from America were just paying their bill. There was one other customer, a regular who was enjoying an after-work drink. We listened to “Blue Velvet,” not the Bobby Vinton version, but the 1954 vocal group rendition by The Clovers from their album Five Cool Cats.
Folk Rock Bar Phoe～be
[Map] 2-7-22 Nishishinsaibashi (Dotonbori Heights 108), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Namba (Midosuji Line), Exit 25. Tel: 06-6214-0267. Open: Mon-Sun 19:00-2:00. Closed: Irregular. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,000. Website Instagram: @phoebe05228.
Folk Rock Bar Phoebe (named after folk singer Phoebe Snow) was started in 2005 by a couple, hardcore Grateful Dead fans who are known to their customers as “Tenshu” (proprietor) and Mama (proprietress). Phoebe started off as an imported goods shop operated by Mama, and the couple remodeled it into a bar because Tenshu was a music enthusiast. Mama became known for her homemade food, especially the chicken curry, which soon became one of the bar’s specialties. In 2016, Folk Bar Phoebe moved into its current location in the Dotonbori Heights building, which is nearly twice the size of the old place. It is conveniently located near many of the area’s most popular hotels and attracts quite a few foreign tourists.
My wife M and I arrived on a Friday night. She had a hard day at work and needed to unwind. The first thing you notice is how out of place the bar looks from the outside, even for Ame-Mura. It’s the type of café you might find in the Haight-Ashbury district of San Francisco. There’s outdoor seating for one, which is rare for the area. Proper tables and chairs sit on a brick patio, along with a couple of rugs that really tie everything together. I couldn’t resist the Big Lebowski reference because Folk Bar Phoebe looks like the kind of place where The Dude would feel right at home. I wonder if they serve White Russians?
Dylan, The Dead Neil Young and More
The love of music is apparent as soon as you walk through the door. The entire bar is filled with records, CDs, DVDs, books and assorted memorabilia. The walls are decorated with framed vintage posters of Bob Dylan, the Grateful Dead, Neil Young, Heron, Los Lobos, and other artists. The tasteful décor is accentuated by stained-glass hanging lamps. The counter seats about ten people.
An Evening with Tenshu and Mama
There are also four tables, one by the entrance and three at the far end of the bar, each seating four people. A low round table with a green-and-white pattern sits in a semi-private nook in the center, divided by curtains. The table is illuminated by a small candle-like lamp, and the seating consists of a mix of patchwork-upholstered chairs and ottomans.
We took our seats in the middle of the bar, next to a young Japanese couple who appeared to be on a date. Tenshu was wearing a Brinsley Schwarz T-shirt and a tam-style knitted cap. I believe Mama was wearing a faded Van Dyke Parks T-shirt (or an artist of similar caliber). I regret not asking her for a photo. A concert by the Allman Brothers was playing on a small TV.
Nick Drake: Five Leaves Left
Ever since I discovered the music of Nick Drake, I’ve had this vision of walking into a bar in Osaka and requesting one of his albums. We ordered drinks and their famous homemade gyoza. I bided my time and made small talk while waiting for the perfect moment to bring up Nick Drake. When I finally made the request, Tenshu pulled out a beautiful vinyl copy of Five Leaves Left. The ears of the young woman next to me perked up. She then told me how much she loved British folksinger.
It was wonderful to finally hear “Time Has Told Me” in a bar in Osaka. It sounded especially good through the Westlake Audio speakers. There’s nothing like listening to music you love with fellow fans. The owners were perfectly happy to play the record, but I still got the nagging sense that I had approached things the wrong way by making such a direct request.
After thinking it over, I asked Tenshu whether he usually took requests. He said he’ll often put on a record if an artist comes up in the natural flow of conversation. He didn’t have to elaborate, and I understood exactly what he meant. In most Japanese record bars, the music is selected by the owner rather than the customers. For 21 years, Tenshu and Mama have built a loyal following by creating an environment that reflects their own tastes. Imagine if every other customer requested Layla or Free Bird; the vibe would shift dramatically. Part of the charm of Phoebe is just going with the flow in this laid back bar.
Starless スターレス
[Map] 2-7-22 Higashishinsaibashi (Nisho Silky Tower 4F), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Shinsaibashi (Midosuji Line), Exit 6. Tel: 06-6484-7027. Open: Tue-Sat 19:00-0:30. Closed: Sun & Mon. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,000. Website: uni-hiron.wixsite.com/tavern
Starless is the only progressive rock bar in Osaka. This wasn’t always the case. Owner Hiroshi Nishimura was a regular at another prog rock (or “progure” in Japanese) bar. When that bar closed in the 2010s, Nishimura felt that a city the size of Osaka should not be without a progressive rock bar. He decided to take matters into his own hands and opened his own bar in November 2015.
The Last Prog Rock Bar in Osaka
Starless, which takes its name from a King Crimson song, is located in the Nippō Silky Tower, a relic of Japan’s bubble years in Higashi-Shinsaibashi that was completed in 1986. My wife and I took the elevator to the fourth floor and opened the door to a tiny bar packed with middle-aged men sitting at the counter. It was nice to know that the demographic of progressive rock fans in Japan is consistent with the rest of the world, my wife being the only woman inside.
What impressed me most about Starless was that Nishimura had largely left intact the look and feel of the previous occupant, a high-end cocktail bar. There were a few scattered posters and a memoir by King Crimson member Jakko M. Jakszyk on the shelf, but nothing that explicitly screamed “rock bar.” Since I rarely drink in places like this, it was something of a new experience for me. I ordered a reasonably priced bottle of Blue Moon and settled in for the evening.
Murasaki and Midas: Discovering Japanese Prog-Rock
My wife had never heard the term “progressive rock,” but the customer sitting next to her took the time to patiently explain the characteristics of the genre and recommended that she start with Murasaki (Purple), a progressive rock band from Okinawa that was active in the 1970s. He then showed her a CD he had brought along by the Osaka progressive rock band Midas, which had just released its ninth CD. After “Echoes” finished, Nishimura-san put it on. It sounded fantastic, and I immediately thought it would be a band worth seeing live.
Rush: Moving Pictures
The customer on my left turned out to be a Rush fan, so we spent some time talking about the band. He was excited that Rush had reunited with a new drummer, and we both wondered whether they might return to Japan. The band has only toured the country once, in 1984, when they played the Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium. When it was my turn to make a request, I chose “Tom Sawyer” from Moving Pictures, which went over well with the other customers.
We decided to stay a little longer and enjoyed a pleasant chat with Nishimura-san, who has a calm and warm demeanor. When it was time to leave, he walked us to the elevator like a true gentleman. It was a small gesture, but a memorable one.
Blackon 黒紺
[Map]1-6-7 Sennichimae (4F), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Nipponbashi (Sennichimae/Sakaisuji lines), Exit 2. Tel: N/A (contact via SNS). Open: Mon-Sat 19:30-1:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. Closed: Irregular. Price: ¥1000-¥2,000. Instagram: @bar_blackon
Blackon is located in Sennichimae between Dotonbori and Nipponbashi, in a pocket of Minami packed with narrow streets, smoky restaurants, small bars, snack lounges, and other late-night establishments. It occupies the fourth floor of the Nippō Sakamachi Five building, which sits across the street from the Osaka branch of Hardcore Chocolate.
The name Blackon is a play on the Japanese abbreviation burakon for “Black Contemporary,” the local term for urban, danceable, and highly polished genres rooted in African American music, including R&B, soul, funk, and modern hip hop. The term emerged in the late 1970s and 1980s and has had a deep influence on Japanese pop culture. Read literally, however, the kanji (黒紺) mean “black and navy blue.” The walls of the bar just happen to be painted navy blue.
After Midnight in Sennichimae
We arrived at Blackon a few minutes after midnight. The owner, a friendly white-haired gentleman I’ll refer to as “Owner-san,” and staff member Yukio Watanabe had been sitting at the bar looking at their phones. As soon as we walked in, however, they were “on” and in full party mode, dancing and grooving to “Do You Love Me?” by Joyce White. Although there is a nice selection of vinyl, most of the music played here comes from MP3s on a laptop connected to powerful JBL speakers, which sounded incredible bouncing off the walls of the tiny bar.
Watanabe is a jack-of-all-trades, including tarot card reader, who previously lived in Tokyo for 27 years before moving to Osaka. He often works as an MC at events such as fashion shows. Owner-san said he hired him on the spot after becoming acquainted only a few months ago. As I mentioned earlier, my wife had a rough day at work, and visits to Phoebe and Starless had already helped her unwind, but the music at Blackon was even more aligned with her tastes. After learning that she is a huge fan of Tower of Power, Watanabe-san put on “What Is Hip?” and suddenly it felt as though we were the only guests in the VIP lounge of a private after-party.
A Shrine to Spike Lee
Blackon feels like a tribute to the films of director Spike Lee. A huge poster for Crooklyn takes up most of the back wall. Owner-san said he tracked down an actual New York City subway poster. He told me that Clockers is his favorite Spike Lee film. When I mentioned that I had attended the same high school as the acclaimed filmmaker, albeit eleven years apart, he excitedly showed me a custom version of the Air Jordan 4 featuring an illustration of Mars Blackmon, the character from She’s Gotta Have It who later appeared in Nike commercials with Michael Jordan. Owner-san must have read my mind because the next song he played was “Fight the Power,” Public Enemy’s anthem from Do the Right Thing.
After enjoying a fine selection of music by Stevie Wonder, Grace Jones, Front Page, Dr. Dre, and Kiyoshiro Imawano of RC Succession, it was time to call it a night. We left the bar at 1:52 a.m., fully refreshed, and walked through the streets of Osaka to Kinryu Ramen for a late-night snack.
Bar IPPUKU
[Map] 1-3-3 Shinsaibashisuji (Sophia Shinsaibashi 133, 4F), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Shinsaibashi (Midosuji Line), Exit 6. Tel: 06-6210-3284. Open: Mon-Sun 20:00-3:00. Closed: Irregular. Price: ¥500-¥1,500. Instagram: @pg.nanzo.
The name “IPPUKU” (一服) literally means “a short break” or “a smoke or tea break.” The bar is located on the fourth floor of the Sophia Building, almost directly behind the massive Uniqlo flagship store in the heart of the Shinsaibashi shopping district. I arrived shortly after it opened and took a seat at the bar so I could chat with the owner, DJ Nanzo, who is incredibly knowledgeable about soul, hip hop, funk, and blues. He has an impressive collection of vinyl behind the bar (I would estimate close to 1,000 records) and it’s a lot of fun to watch him work the turntables in between making cocktails.
A Music Bar that plays Old School Hip Hop
Bar IPPUKU is the place to go if you want to hear old-school hip hop on vinyl. I knew I would love this bar as soon as I saw the Wild Style poster on the wall. The 1983 film had a huge impact on jump-starting hip hop and graffiti culture in Japan. The first song Nanzo-san played was “Let Me Turn You On” by the legendary Biz Markie, followed by “Rapper’s Delight,” the first hip hop song I ever heard as an elementary school student in Brooklyn. Hearing it on vinyl through Electro-Voice (EV) speakers really took me back to 1979. RIP Big Bank Hank, who allegedly ripped off the lyrics from Grandmaster Caz.
Deep Cuts and Surprises
As I’ve stated before, the best thing about visiting a music bar owned by a music lover with expertise like DJ Nanzo’s is that you get a wonderful sampling of deep cuts by well-known artists, some of them quite surprising. One of the biggest bangers of the evening was “Ain’t Gonna Hurt Nobody” by Kid ‘n Play. Released in 1991, the song completely changed my opinion of the duo. I had always thought of them as lightweights from the House Party movies, but listening to their music 35 years later, I have to admit they had skills.
After “The Lover in You” by Big Daddy Kane, Nanzo played three tracks by artists I was unfamiliar with: “I’m So Hot” by Denise LaSalle, “Tough Luv” by Jay-Z protégés Young Gunz, and “Dusic” by Brick, an American funk and soul group formed in Atlanta in 1972. The band has long been popular among Japanese soul fans and DJs, and their music has been sampled by Ice Cube, Gang Starr, EPMD, and MC Lyte.
The bar started to fill up with a mix of Japanese and foreign customers, including two international couples on a double date. There’s additional seating on the veranda, with a nice view of the city below, perfect for drinks on a summer night. DJ Nanzo switched things up with “Bigger Than Both of Us” by Hall & Oates. A look at his Instagram reveals eclectic tastes ranging from Geto Boys, Mos Def, and Lady Gaga to Van Halen and the Lupin the Third soundtrack. I could easily see myself visiting Bar IPPUKU and Blackon on the same evening. The two bars complement each other nicely.
Mile High Club
[Map] 3-1-27 Namba (Mido-namba Building 3F), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Namba (Midosuji Line), Exit 14. Tel: 06-7710-7364. Open: Tue-Sun 19:00-midnight. Closed: Mon. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,000. Instagram: milehighclub2012
Several record and music bar owners I visited told me to stop by Mile High Club in Namba because the Master (マスター) has almost encyclopedic recall when it comes to certain genres of music. The small wooden sign out front reads, “Record Bar Mile High Club 60s, 70s, 80s. Rock, Pop, Punk, New Wave & Disco etc.” Taped to the sign were actual album covers by ABBA, Eurythmics, Bananarama, and Sheena Easton, not color copies. Mile High Club is also a popular hangout for fans for 90s UK Indie Rock, Shoegaze, Dream Pop and Britpop.
I took the elevator up to the third floor and arrived a bit too early, at exactly 6:58. Owner Shoji Nakai quickly turned on the lights and announced he was open for business by playing Forever Changes, the seminal album by Love, one of my favorite bands. The next selection was “Ceremony” by New Order, another favorite, although I much prefer the original Joy Division version.
A Huge Selection of Music
Mile High Club is one of the few record bars I’ve visited where you can’t sit at the counter. Given the location, I imagine it gets quite crowded at certain times, and this is definitely a one-man operation. I suspect the arrangement gives Nakai-san more time to select records and mix drinks. Tables line the wall, and there’s still plenty of opportunity to chat about music when you order at the bar, which strikes me as a sensible setup. Unlike other music bars I’ve visited, Mile High Club also has records and CDs for sale, probably items from Nakai’s collection that he no longer plays in the bar. I noticed a Yoko Ono box set priced at around 6,000 yen.
A Musical Education
I wasn’t the only customer for long. About ten minutes later, a Japanese man and woman in their twenties walked through the door. The man was excited to see posters of UK icons like David Bowie, Adam Ant, and Peter Gabriel on the wall. He told Nakai that he was just getting into British ’80s music, so the proprietor put on “Prince Charming” by Adam and the Ants. I got a kick out of watching the couple react to the music, hearing this classic song for the first time through the vintage Diatone speakers.
The young music fan mentioned that he was really into Bananarama. Instead of reaching for a popular favorite like “Cruel Summer,” Nakai selected “It’s Ain’t What You Do It’s The Way That You Do It” by Fun Boy Three and Bananarama , which which went over well with the couple. I had a feeling the next song would be by The Specials, and I was right (“Stereotype/Stereotype Part 2”) When the young man excitedly approached the bar, the Nakai explained that Fun Boy Three was an offshoot of The Specials.
Although I only stayed for a couple of drinks, it was a pleasure to watch the older vinyl enthusiast patiently introduce the Two Tone sound to a younger fan. “Wings of a Dove” by Madness was the next selection. I imagined him going down the rabbit hole that very night and discovering The Beat, and the Selecter as part of his musical journey. Other selections included Brian Eno (“Baby’s On Fire”) , Ryuichi Sakamoto (“Forbidden Colors”) and The Clash (“Gates of The West”). Check out this punk and new wave event there THIS Saturday, 6/27.
Motel Shot モーテルショット
[Map] 1-3 Sonezakishinchi, Kita Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Kitashinchi (JR Tozai Line), Exit 11-21. Tel: 06-6346-5825. Open: Mon-Thu 19:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-2:00. Closed: Sun. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,000.
Kitashinchi is Osaka’s premier high-end entertainment district, a maze of narrow streets lined with upscale bars, exclusive clubs, and fine restaurants. The Nippo-Star Building seemed like an unlikely place to host a casual music bar, so it was a bit intimidating to taking the elevator to the fifth floor to visit Motel Shot. I can’t recall ever drinking in this area, most of the places are well beyond my budget, andwho knows about all the hidden changes that could be incurred. I opened the door with a mix of extreme curiosity and trepidation.
Upon taking a seat at the bar and being greeted by the friendly Master, I realized that all my worries about high costs were for naught. Motel Shot, which is named after a Delaney & Bonnie album, is not the sort of pristine “listening bar” one might expect in this part of town, but rather a good old-fashioned rock bar, complete with shelves containing over 1,500 CDs and DVDs (including bootlegs). A large poster of Lynyrd Skynyrd hangs behind the bar.
Drink prices are on par with those at other music bars, and the ¥500 cover charge is quite reasonable for such a small establishment, especially one located in this area. There’s even an optional two-hour all-you-can drink nomihodai for ¥3,000 that includes Scotch (water or on the rocks), bourbon with soda, gin, rum, red and white wine, and soft drinks. It was tempting, but I wasn’t planning on staying that long so I decided to go with Kirin beer on tap.
Watch DVDs at Motel Shot (including Bootlegs)
In addition to the drink menu, there’s a recommended “menu” of DVDs (including bootlegs) from Master’s extensive collection that can be shown on an overhead TV. Titles written on a blackboard included Stax/Volt Revue: Live in Norway, 1967, Aretha Franklin: Amsterdam, 1968, Paul McCartney: Tokyo Dome, 2013, and the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame’s second anniversary concert featuring Crosby, Stills & Nash, Paul Simon, Stevie Wonder, and other artists.
We watched selections from Rock and Roll Hall of Fame induction ceremonies featuring U2 with Mick Jagger, Metallica with Lou Reed, Bruce Springsteen and Jeff Beck with Sting, as well as performances by ZZ Top and Buddy Guy. I asked Master about the Ovations featuring Louis Williams poster on the wall. He told me he saw the group at Taku Taku in Kyoto in 1985 and got Williams’s autograph, which is displayed next to the poster.
The walls are also covered with ticket from concerts he has attended in Japan over the years, including shows by Al Green, Ray Charles, James Brown, the Rolling Stones, the Pointer Sisters, Otis Clay, Manhattan Transfer, Earth, Wind & Fire, Jimmy Cliff, and Bob Marley and the Wailers. He mentioned that Tower of Power would be playing Billboard Live the following week. My wife is a huge fan of the band and had no idea they were coming, but thanks to Master’s tip, we were able to score tickets close to the stage. I’ll have to return soon and buy him a drink.
Bar Rehab
[Map] 1-2-1 Ukida (Mittsuboshi Building 1F), Kita Ward, Osaka. Nearest stations: Tenjimbashi 6-Chome Station (Sakasuji Line) Exit 13. Nakazakicho (Tanimachi Line) and Temma (JR Line). Tel: 06-6375-7873. Open: Mon-Sat 20:00-0:30. Closed: Sun. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,000. Instagram: @bar.rehab.est.2014
I almost skipped Bar Rehab, an oxymoron if there ever was one, because I thought it was a bit out of the way. It turned out to be in an ideal location, just a short walk from Tenjimbashi 6-Chome, Nakazakicho, and JR Temma stations. Let me explain how I ended up in Rehab. Last July, my friend Cliff and I visited Taipei and went to a rock bar and live house called Revolver, where we met “Takatic Tak,” a Taiwanese guy who grew up in Kobe. We made plans to meet up in Temma and had a great meal at a famous (and cheap) izakaya near the station called Ginzaya. After that, we stopped by one of the friendliest sake bars in Osaka, Sakedokoro Kojiro.
Hey Ho, Let’s Go
The evening was going splendidly, but the third stop on an Osaka bar crawl is critical because one wrong move can shift the entire momentum. We tried to get into Azuki Iro no Markus, but it was too crowded. Strike one. Not a problem, I thought. We’d just hit the Malaysian place, Sakura Shintamon, but it was packed too. Strike two. The pressure was mounting, and in a Hail Mary attempt, I blurted out, “Since we met at a rock bar, let’s go to one.” I checked my extensive list of record bars on Google Maps and noticed that Bar Rehab was only an eight-minute walk away. Hey ho, let’s go!
We sat down at the bar and met the owner, Shinya Okabe, who had the same welcoming demeanor as the Master of Motel Shot. Hell, they could be brothers! After ordering drinks, Cliff told Okabe-san that the Ramones were his favorite band, so he pulled out their first album and placed it on the turntable beside him. “Blitzkrieg Bop” sounded fantastic through the back-loaded horn speakers built by Okabe himself. The speaker cone faces forward, allowing the mid and high frequencies to be projected directly at the listener.
Kraftwerk Tour de France
Bar Rehab is another record bar that is popular with foreign travelers. While we were enjoying our drinks, two young German guys sat down at the bar. We started talking about German rock, so Okabe-san put on an album by the Scorpions. Someone mentioned Kraftwerk (of course), and one of the Germans said that his father was a big fan, but he had never really listened to their music. Not a problem. The owner quickly produced a pristine copy of Tour de France. It would be kind of ironic if they became fans of the band after discovering them at a bar in Osaka.
Checking into Bar Rehab for a few drinks, music, and vinyl was the perfect way to welcome Takatic to Osaka. We ended the night with a stop at Wonder Too for some authentic Cantonese food. Unfortunately, it closed about a week later. Fortunately, there’s a Mexican restaurant called Tacofini, just a minute’s walk from Bar Rehab, that has received rave reviews, so we’ll try that next time.
Alffo Records
[Map] 1-2-6 Shinmachi (Nippo New Shinmachi Building 3F), Nishi Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Yotsubashi (Yotsubashi Line), Exit 1-A. Tel: 06-6539-0460. Open: Mon-Fri (ex. Wed) 15:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun & holidays 13:00-21:00. Closed: Wed. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,000. Instagram: @alfforecords. Website: alfforecords.net
Last month, Osaka.com ran an article on kakuuchi, a bar in a liquor store. The next two shops covered here are bars inside record stores. There’s no special word for this type of establishment, so maybe somebody should invent a catchy term. I went to Alffo Records with a friend named Martin who was visiting from London. He wanted to check out some record stores and I was in the mood for a drink. We walked over to Alffo Records after lunch. It’s a good thing it was on a Saturday because the record store slash bar opens two hours early.
Sitting at the Bar…in a Record Shop
After browsing the new released, which included many imports such as the Pavements soundtrack, we sat down at the bar for a drink. I ordered a Carlsberg beer on tap and Martin got a soft drink. We were served by the owner, Seiji Nakashima, a DJ who began buying records after being inspired by his older brother, who was also a DJ. Nakashima originally opened Alffo Records purely as a retail store, but he decided to expand the shop into a multi-functional space in which music fans of all ages could grab a drink, listen to music, and exchange information. It’s so much more fun to visit a record shop, pick up a flier, or hear about upcoming events directly from someone like Nakashima, rather than relying on the algorithm of social media.
Kawashima asked me what I had been listening to recently. I told him that my two favorite records I’d purchased recently were by Zero Azucar from Spain and Homefront from Canada. Although he hadn’t heard of either group, he played several tracks from a streaming service (or maybe YouTube) from his computer, which was located in an impressive DJ booth at the front of the shop. It was nice to hear the songs on the shop’s massive sound system. And who knows, maybe Kawashima will order some of their records now that he’s hip to them.
Memories of Yusuke Chiba (The Michelle Gun Elephant)
We had a really nice chat about Yusuke Chiba, the lead singer of Thee Michelle Gun Elephant, The Birthday and Ross, who sadly passed away in November of 2023. Kawashima-san is a massive fan and even organized a week-long memorial to the late singer a month after his passing. I recall reading that Yusuke Chiba was a customer at Alffo Records, but I didn’t want to press my luck by asking the owner directly.
On a whim, I decided to order coffee and a bagel, figuring I might never get a chance to order the latter in a record store ever again. The coffee was strong and the bagel was surprisingly tasty. At this time of the day there is nothing like taking a coffee break with great music.
Root Down Records ルートダウンレコード
[Map]1-10-33 Nishishinsaibashi (Kitasumiya Building 5F), Chuo Ward, Osaka. Nearest station: Shinsaibashi (Midosuji Line), Exit 7. Tel: N/A. Open: Mon-Sun 15:00-22:00. Closed: None listed. Price: ¥1,000-¥2,000. Instagram: @rootdownrecords. Website: rootdownrecords.jp.
Root Down Records is a shop located on the fifth floor of the Kita-Sumiya Building that specializes in Black music, including soul, funk, R&B, jazz, rare groove, disco, hip-hop, Latin, and reggae, with a curated selection of over 3,000 records for sale, including vintage pressings and new releases. The shop also has an in-house label that has released exclusive 7-inches by artists such as DJ Dez. Owner Daisuke Kazikiyo has created a community space where local DJs, producers, hip-hop artists, and crate diggers can congregate around the small bar on the premises to exchange information and search for sampling sources. Potential buyers can listen to records on audiophile-grade Tannoy Turnberry HE-75 speakers before making a purchase.
I had visited Root Down Records three years earlier when I profiled Junko Ogawa, but I always planned to return on my own. The steep climbup to the fifth floor were a workout, so I ordered a cold Kirin Heartland from Kazikiyo-san straight away. While enjoying my beer, I perused the fliers for upcoming events and business cards for newly opened shops. As mentioned earlier, these fliers tend to carry information that is hard to find online, and I like what that represents: show up, support independent shops, and you get access to events that fly under the radar. People love to mock Japan for still using the fax machine in 2026, but perhaps clinging to the analog world isn’t such a bad instinct after all.
Buying a Isaac Hayes CD
I didn’t want to leave Root Down Records without buying something, so I perused the CD selection until something caught my eye: a Japanese pressing of Hot Buttered Soul by Isaac Hayes, at a very reasonable price. Before leaving, I stopped to admire the autographed copies of Coffy signed by Roy Ayers and Six Days signed by DJ Shadow, who I imagine has done some digging here in the past. Going down the steps was considerably more fun than going up, and I was glad I hadn’t left anything behind like last time.
